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<GUIDE w/ PICTURES> OEM Trailer Hitch + Bezel Install

20K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  007 
#1 · (Edited)
(GUIDE IN PROGRESS) Here will be a guide on installing the OEM Class III Trailer hitch and bezel. Pictures comming asap.




COST: $396 CAD (with ~$75 discounted from the cool guy I talked to at my preferred Jeep dealership)

TOOLS: T-30 Torx, 10MM socket, 11MM Socket, 21MM socket (more I am missing)

TIME: So far 2 hours (also learning how to do it as i haven't found any guide yet)

Progress: Hitch installed, still need to cut out hole in bumper for bezel




Step 1: Remove the 2 bolts (T-30 Torx) at the bottem left and right of the top of the bumper on the outside of the tailgate weatherstripping (tailgate must be open to see them)



Step 2: Remove the 4 bolts ((T-30 Torx)(2 from each side)) from the rear taillights



Step 3: Remove the 2 bolts, 4 if trailhawk?? ((10MM Socket)(1 from each side)) from the rear inside of the wheel well
PICTURE COMING SOON


Step 4: Remove the rear most plastic fender flair ((USE CAUTION, THE CLIPS WILL EASILY BRAKE)(No bolts))
PICTURE COMING SOON


Step 5: Remove the 2 bolts ((T-30 Torx)(1 from each side)) from where the plastic fender flair was
PICTURE COMING SOON


Step 6: Remove the 4 bolts (10MM? Socket) from under the bumper
PICTURE COMING SOON


Step 7: Remove the bumper assembly (Bumper and 2 rear painted parts) You will need to give them a good tug as the clips hold it well



Step 8: Remove the aluminum bumper (6x 14mm? Nuts IF NON-TRAILHAWK ... 6x 14mm? Nuts + 6x 21MM Bolts IF TRAILHAWK?)



Step 9: Install the new hitch with new hardware by sliding it into the frame (6x 21MM Bolts torqued to 122 FT-LBS or 165NM and the 6x 14MM? nuts torqued to 21FT-LBS or 28NM) There is some wiggle room when the bolts are in but not yet tightend, it's a good idea to either pull back or push the hitch into the frame to make sure it's square to the frame (I personally chose to pull the hitch towards the back then torqued the bolts)




BEZEL INSTALL: COMING TOMORROW
 
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#3 ·
BEZEL INSTALL:


Step1: Cut out the two rectangles in on the first template and place it on the BACK of the bumper then drill the 4 holes with a 1/4" drillbit



Step2: Cutout and align the 2nd set of template on the FRONT of the bumper using the plastic rivets supplied, the trace the template with a fine sharpie



Step3:Cut out the plastic required, I used a jigsaw (the template was not accurate at all. I spent about 1.5 hours cutting out the hole for the bezel, making sure i didnt cut out too much and i almost did.)



Step4: Drill 1/8 or 3/16" holes for the studs on the back of the bezel and use the supplied hardware to install (there is no template for the studs so you need to eyeball it)




END PROCUCT

 
#22 ·
BEZEL INSTALL:


Step1: Cut out the two rectangles in on the first template and place it on the BACK of the bumper then drill the 4 holes with a 1/4" drillbit



Step2: Cutout and align the 2nd set of template on the FRONT of the bumper using the plastic rivets supplied, the trace the template with a fine sharpie



Step3:Cut out the plastic required, I used a jigsaw (the template was not accurate at all. I spent about 1.5 hours cutting out the hole for the bezel, making sure i didnt cut out too much and i almost did.)



Step4: Drill 1/8 or 3/16" holes for the studs on the back of the bezel and use the supplied hardware to install (there is no template for the studs so you need to eyeball it)




END PROCUCT

Where you get your templates I never got one with my Bezel?
 
#4 ·
Step 4: Remove the rear most plastic fender flair ((USE CAUTION, THE CLIPS WILL EASILY BRAKE)(No bolts)).....what did you use to get the clips through, I can't get mine to budge.
 
#6 ·
I did this a while back and this guide would have been great! Instead I had to go off of random threads and the *absolutely wonderful* Mopar install documents. Great write up!
 
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#7 ·
Those Mopar install docs suck! Thanks for the help, I might work on it tonight since I want to get the hitch on so I can get a basket so I don't have to toss a dead deer in my trunk
 
#10 ·
Awesome writeup! I will probably be using this if I don't just take it to the dealership to instal.

I am guessing you never ran wiring? If you did was it hard to do so? I don't really want to overpay for the dealership to run wiring but it might have to be the only way to do it without a lot of hassle.
 
#11 ·
I personally ran a Curt Wiring harness. It plugs into the tail lights and a power source. (I don't recall having to cut any factory wiring) I didn't bother with the factory harness.

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#15 ·
The rear parking sensors should not be a problem as they are much higher on the fascia. They also should have a quick disconnect harness.

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#17 ·
Are you talking about this piece?


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NYYREC

It is held onto the bumper by medal clips on the top and bottom. You have to squeeze them and the plug will slide out through the front, aka back of the car.
 
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#20 ·
The two metal clips, one on the top and one on the bottom actually end up inside the hitch. I tried for over an hour to get it out, with no luck. I ended up breaking it. I found a new one on eBay for $28 so it should be here within a week. Meanwhile, the original one is back in place, but just not clipped in!
 
#24 ·
Yes, the template should definitely be included. You can't really do it without that template, or you're flying blind.
I did this install myself a couple of years ago and the hitch part was pretty straightforward and simple. The wiring harness, on the other hand, was a pain in the ass. The biggest pain for me was routing the wires between the front and back doors. I had a really hard time feeding wire pulling hardware through there to pull it through. But I finally prevailed and it worked great, providing the reverse voltage to the trailer to disengage the braking solenoid on it.
I would contact whoever you bought it from and let them know the box was resealed and critical components were missing from it.
 
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