Rust Proofing for Canada - Page 2 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 04:42 PM
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Question. I notice that rust proofing consists of filling the voids with a material that is resistant to rust, as well as the undercoating... But what about the metal lips around the doors and the hatch? What about the front lip on the hood? In my experience, the first things to start rusting are the edges of the doors, etc, places where you can't exactly rust proof. Or, do they do something I'm not aware of?

My last vehicle had rust proof foam blown into all the cavities and undercoating applied. While the extra protection did what it was supposed to do, I still had surface rust appearing in the nooks and crannies.

So, is it really worth it?

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Current Mileage: 56,000km
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 07:35 PM
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Question. I notice that rust proofing consists of filling the voids with a material that is resistant to rust, as well as the undercoating... But what about the metal lips around the doors and the hatch? What about the front lip on the hood? In my experience, the first things to start rusting are the edges of the doors, etc, places where you can't exactly rust proof. Or, do they do something I'm not aware of?

My last vehicle had rust proof foam blown into all the cavities and undercoating applied. While the extra protection did what it was supposed to do, I still had surface rust appearing in the nooks and crannies.

So, is it really worth it?
The hood is aluminum.

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Question. I notice that rust proofing consists of filling the voids with a material that is resistant to rust, as well as the undercoating... But what about the metal lips around the doors and the hatch? What about the front lip on the hood? In my experience, the first things to start rusting are the edges of the doors, etc, places where you can't exactly rust proof. Or, do they do something I'm not aware of?

My last vehicle had rust proof foam blown into all the cavities and undercoating applied. While the extra protection did what it was supposed to do, I still had surface rust appearing in the nooks and crannies.

So, is it really worth it?
Krown uses thin oil that creeps into nooks and crannies that we don't see or reach, nothing else. They drilled access points where needed to insert a wand to inject the misty oil into the closed spaces. On each door, they drilled one high access point by the door handle and a lower one, you would see the oil seeps out the drainage holes and therefore it must get into the metal lip/edge around the doors. Included in the price was a spray can of their oil, I applied on the outside of the edges with a rag for extra protection.

The hood already has plenty of openings so they spayed liberally into those. You would see excess oil dripping onto your bumper from the front lip. The downside to this is it will take more effort to keep the engine bay clean.

I had a bad experience with my Mazda MPV, rustproofed from dealer. Rust started from inside door panels and destroyed the lower metal lips and ate through my wheel wells. They used a wax substance to seal the edges on doors and rear hatch but no protection from the inside. While the doors were bad, the hatch and sliding doors have no rust. I believe rain water penetrated into front door panels from the window seals and got into the rolled edges. IMO, Krown protection makes better sense in this regard.

They also sprayed upward when the car is on hoist, the oil should creep into gaps between body panels, front/rear bumpbers and into shock towers.

I think our Jeeps worth the protection but don't know how effective it is until years from now.

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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-21-2015, 09:52 AM
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The hood is aluminum.
Correct.

However, aluminum can still corrode.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-21-2015, 10:30 AM
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Krown uses thin oil that creeps into nooks and crannies that we don't see or reach, nothing else. They drilled access points where needed to insert a wand to inject the misty oil into the closed spaces. On each door, they drilled one high access point by the door handle and a lower one, you would see the oil seeps out the drainage holes and therefore it must get into the metal lip/edge around the doors. Included in the price was a spray can of their oil, I applied on the outside of the edges with a rag for extra protection.

The hood already has plenty of openings so they spayed liberally into those. You would see excess oil dripping onto your bumper from the front lip. The downside to this is it will take more effort to keep the engine bay clean.

I had a bad experience with my Mazda MPV, rustproofed from dealer. Rust started from inside door panels and destroyed the lower metal lips and ate through my wheel wells. They used a wax substance to seal the edges on doors and rear hatch but no protection from the inside. While the doors were bad, the hatch and sliding doors have no rust. I believe rain water penetrated into front door panels from the window seals and got into the rolled edges. IMO, Krown protection makes better sense in this regard.

They also sprayed upward when the car is on hoist, the oil should creep into gaps between body panels, front/rear bumpbers and into shock towers.

I think our Jeeps worth the protection but don't know how effective it is until years from now.
Thanks for the write-up! Sounds like they do quite a bit of work to get all the areas protected. But what about surface rust? On my previous vehicles, surface rust was always the first to occur, and I don't think there is any product out there that can stop this. A combination of rain, carwashes, waxing/polishing, sure would strip off any protective rust coating that may have been applied to the exterior.

The drippings you mention in the engine bay, I definitely wouldn't want to go through this, for any amount of protection. I have too much OCD over the cleanliness of my car lol.

Also, what about the crimped edges of metal around the doors, etc, and all the seams? Being crimped, the oil they insert will not be able to flow through these areas. Again, these areas are usually the first to show signs of rust. You mention they gave you a spray can to continuously apply it around the edges, but that seems like a lot of added maintenance...

I'm not all too convinced its worth it.

Black Cherokee Sport 4x4 i4
Current Mileage: 56,000km
Ordered February 11th 2014 - Picked up May 2nd 2014
Unresolved transmission clunk 2nd to 3rd.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-21-2015, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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@wpgguy

I believe Krown has a different application for surface rust based on their price list but I would not bother. This may give Jeep Chrysler the excuse to wash their hands off any surface paint issue during warranty period.

Excluding issues due to external source such as stone chip, surface rusts indicated a manufacturing problem in treating the sheet metal and no rust protection will help us.

I don't want to sound like I am promoting for Krown but I have read countless pages of Krown-related postings online and there were people who had the same preference of cleanliness in the engine bay, they ended up asking the Krown guys not
to spray the hood ( then the Krown guys forgot the request).

The crimped edges on our Jeeps are very interesting, have you looked at them closely? My Mazda experience made me do this.

The horizontal edges at the bottom looked like they were double rolled then folded; the paint finish made it look like no seam at all, I was impressed. So I think we need to apply a paint protection that will shed moisture away at the same time.

The vertical edges were folded so technically moisture can still penetrate from both in and out direction so it needs a protection that seals. A protective barrier from both inside and out should work the best.

The inside of the edges can only be accessed from inside the door panel and again, we depend on the manufacturing process. If any gap there, only an oil film can form a protective barrier against moisture.

In summary, protection by oil film sounds good in theory but we will have to put up with drippings and annual application.

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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-21-2015, 04:31 PM
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Glad I live in high altitude arid desert.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Glad I live in high altitude arid desert.
The scrunity over small details sounds trivial but it also shows Jeep has done so many right things for our KLs. I was impressed to find a nice ATF cooler in my North/Lat model; I had to go after-market on my other vehicles with routing rubber hoses, screwed clamps and non-standard mounting brackets . The specs also listed an engine oil cooler which I intend to search for when doing my own 1st oil change.

The Cherooke could have gained better market share if they got us the right transmission from the start.

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 02:37 PM
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The Cherooke could have gained better market share if they got us the right transmission from the start.
Pretty sure it out sold its expectations.

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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 04:38 PM
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My local autobody man showed me several parts (door panels, fenders) from fairly new vehicles that were rustproofed at the factory. Bottom line - no rustproofing material evident. I have had three new vehicles Krowned with no problems and, of course, they provide a warranty if you have a new vehicle done. I had one leased vehicle that was not Krowned and it started to rust through at age 4. I am now waiting for my new Cherokee and it will be taken by the dealer to Krown.
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