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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:23 AM
Champagne InHand
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Upstate Western New York. Just East of the Rochester metroplex
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I can tell you that you can remove almost all the lower cladding through either screws or body panel pins. There are only two points that I couldn't figure out to get the whole thing off and these involved riveted like pins. I couldn't get them off without a proper tool, and no i do not know where to buy said, proper tool.

These two points of contact were found as I started taking the plastic body molding off to access the headlights, from the rear, but in front of the first set of wheels. It took me a couple hours to work almost all the body molding off, with every sort of different sized screw and body panel pin, until I arrived at this last set of rivet-like metal pins that obviously needed a special tool.

It was at this point I decided to pay a guy to install everything from the top, down. I am pretty sure that these panels were designed not to be fully removed, unless it was to be replaced by a whole new fascia after collision repair. I just can't see how removal would give anybody a better angle of approach.

I did learn something during this exercise in futility though as I had my car through the underwash higher end Super Kiss at the Delta Sonic car wash as I wanted to be sure that I got as much salt out of the fascia and undercarriage as possible.

One. Zeibart people were idiots as they had sprayed rust inhibitor/undercoating directly on the plastic fascia throughout the front end and not a drop was actually sprayed onto the body panels or framed area in the front, of which a big part is actually aluminum where the engine/transaxle are.
2. I realized after having tons of dried up salt and dirt pour right into my face or shirt, that any return to Ziebart or any other like company was ridiculous because of all the different pieces of over-lapping plastic pieces held loads of salty grit no matter how often you did spray off your underside during the Winters in America's snowy rust belt. Even had they (Zeibart) been able to fully remove the entire front fascia going back to the front wheel, spraying anything on the metal would have made no difference as way too much powdery grit gets trapped in between the plastic paneling and would rub off.

I seriously do not think that this is a user serviceable piece that's meant to be removed before any off-road use.

There are just too many different types of fasteners and overall I just don't see that much difference in any angle of approach sans plastic guards. If you are going to scrap it. Scrap it. Better the plastic take the punishment than any metal are below the bumper.


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