First Oil Change - 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk

homac · Apr 4, 2015

Just completed my first oil change on the Trailhawk. It was one of the easiest vehicles I have changed oil on. A couple points for those who may be interested:

Oil filter is up top and on the left side of the engine compartment
I recommend jamming a couple rags or paper towels around the filter housing to catch any stray oil drops. (that said, much cleaner than having the filter on the bottom of the engine !)
When I was doing the change I also decided to add a Fumoto valve to make the next change easier.
Unscrewed the oil filter cap and it comes out with the filter attached which is easily pulled off.
The filter itself is cylinder shape and when inserting it into the oil filter housing, the pointed end goes downward.
A new "o" ring is supplied with the filter which is fitted to the oil filter cap. (I usually coat these with a wee bit of oil to facilitate better sealing
Once the oil filter is placed into the oil filter housing, you can then add the cap but gently screwing it on, eventually you will hear a 'click' as it pops onto the filter already placed in the housing.
I recommend caution, it needs to be tight, but avoid over tightening
I let the Jeep drain for quite a while, ran a bit of clean oil through, then closed off the bottom and added the oil.
I have the 3.2 liter Pentastar and it took 5.6 liters of the recommended 5w20. (Almost exactly 6 quarts for my US friends)
Closed off the oil fill location cap, reset oil indicator on the EVIC, started it up and checked for leaks, thats all.

Hope this helps anyone planning on doing their own oil changes.

zander21510 · Apr 4, 2015

Good read! Nice to know some of the quirks for later on... I see you have that plastic engine cover removed...is that permanent or just for the oil change?

homac · Apr 4, 2015

I removed the plastic engine cover just for the oil change. You also have the option of leaving it on as there is a large removable area where the oil filter is located.

I chose to remove it seeing it easily pops on and off to get a bit better access to the filter housing. Next time I may leave it on as I believe there is more than enough space to gently put a rag or two around the housing and remove the oil filter without making a mess.

roger33 · Apr 4, 2015

Do you have to take off a panel of the aerodynamic undercovering to access the drain plug?

jamie1 · Apr 4, 2015

There is an access panel for the drain plug.

O|||||||O · Apr 4, 2015

Please note that the oil changes procedure in post #1 only applies to the 3.2 V6.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

BigDenMD · Apr 4, 2015

Looks like you used Mobil One Extended Performance. According to Mobil's web site that oil does not meet Chrysler's standard MS-6395.

I have used the Fumoto valves with no problems. They are handy!

SpeedtekTH · Apr 16, 2016

BigDenMD said:
Looks like you used Mobil One Extended Performance. According to Mobil's web site that oil does not meet Chrysler's standard MS-6395.

An interesting note (well after the fact, I know) the owners manual recommends mineral based oil only, not synth. Not sure what grounds they would make that statement on, maybe they are concerned about extended drain intervals.....

Edit: disregard ...... Could have Swore I read this last week in a downloaded manual.......checked my version on the iPad today and it says it is fine to use synth. I'm going dig out that manual I have on the computer at work and see if I can verify if I'm going nuts or not.......

Kevin@kamloops · Apr 5, 2015

I did mine a few weeks ago , Agree , one of the easiest oil changes I have ever done , I took the engine cover off too , I was going to go with Mobil but found Pennzoil Ultimate synthetic cheaper and it conforms to MS6395 , The filter housing is 24 mm and the drain plug is 13 mm , I won't bother with a Fumoto drain , As I will be changing once a year , so hardly worth it for me . Drain plug is just behind the sump guard (TH ) Very easy to find /reach .

onefunkar · Apr 5, 2015

back in 2002 when i got my first oil cartridge car i started painting a dot on the front of the oil cap. just a conenience so i know when it is going to be tight and dont overtighten. from what i hear the filter cartridge holder on these can be very touchy to overtightening and break and leak.

osirisdean · Apr 5, 2015

great writeup, homac! the board needs more of these!

jamie1 · Apr 5, 2015

Do you have the trailer tow package?

mmd2k · Apr 6, 2015

Do you need to put the Cherokee on ramps to do an oil change?

zander21510 · Apr 6, 2015

Can't speak for OP, but when I crawled underneath there was enough room for an oil catch container and working space for a wrench, for the Trailhawk that is.

taatmk · Apr 6, 2015

Very nice information. Thanks for sharing the how to's......

jim_87 · Apr 6, 2015

Great write up for anyone needing a reference for the oil change.

Kevin@kamloops · Apr 6, 2015

Yeah it's a tight squeeze under a TH , but can be done without ramps or jacking up , the drain plug pops out at you , can't miss it ...13mm , I nearly always spill old oil , but not on the TH , it's really very easy .

zander21510 · Apr 6, 2015

Ah yes...every car has a different initial arc of oil...on my ZJ I had to place the pan more than a foot behind the drain plug...and then move it underneath slowly as the flow went down...

homac · Apr 6, 2015

Some additional information for those who asked:

This information applies to the 3.2L V6 Engine.
There is a hole in the skid plate under the engine to access the oil drain plug. Although I have not seen it first hand I have been told the other models also have this hole for easy drain plug access.
I am a big fan of the Fumoto valve, however should you not be so inclined, I recommend slowly removing the drain plug. The oil will not fall directly downward to start and actually pour out in a rearward direction with a little force (i.e. towards the back end of the Jeep). Sharing so you can ensure your bucket/used oil container is positioned appropriately to catch the flow of oil.
Regarding the type of oil, in reality you have more flexibility than you would think. Outside of North America you rarely will find a MS-6395 certified oil. There are much stricter certifications. The Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act would not allow Chrysler to void your warranty, especially when using an oil with higher specifications such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil. Since 5w20 is also somewhat limited to North America it is suggested to use a comparable 5w30 for the 3.2L V6 in other markets. (I have this in writing from Chrysler if anyone really needs specifics)
The oil filler cap is somewhat of a click/lock design so for those concerned about over tightening or having it come loose, this caps design seems to prevents those scenarios.
My model (Trailhawk) has the OEM factory installed "Tow Group". Unlike some other Jeep models (i.e. Jeep Patriot), there appears to be a transmission cooler, however no engine oil cooler. Oil capacity best as I can tell should be the same with (or without) the "Tow Group".
I used some "drive up style" ramps to allow for easy access under the front of the Jeep. This made for more than enough room (Not cramped at all). One could also gain access with no ramps, although my recommendation would be to purchase a set of ramps and use them properly/safely for easy access. There are quite a few types/varieties and I have seen them for as little as $29 on sale.
I am sure most DIY oil change folks know this, but take your time and be safe. Use ramps safely, use gloves, protective eye wear etc. Something as simple as dirt/debris falling from the bottom of your engine into your eye is enough to ruin your day, lets all be safe.

Hope this helps.

Detroit · Apr 9, 2015

Thanks for taking the time to post that write-up.

akguppy · Apr 10, 2015

Fumoto Valve is the F106, no nipple; or I like the long nippled ones, F106N

wxdjm · Jul 5, 2015

If the flow of draining oil is backwards, I would expect that putting the front up on ramps would help with the draining process, correct?

Dodgeboy · Jul 6, 2015

Onefunkar wrote: <<..back in 2002 when i got my first oil cartridge car i started painting a dot on the front of the oil cap. just a conenience so i know when it is going to be tight and dont overtighten. from what i hear the filter cartridge holder on these can be very touchy to overtightening and break and leak.>>

I think that's a good procedure. I put two white paint dots on the oil filter housing and its lid before I changed oil. Then at my first oil change, I actually used a torque wrench on the lid and tightened to the required torque (220 in/lbs). The dots lined up so since then I don't bother with the torque wrench any more, just the dots. There have been reports of 'mechanics' over-tightening the lid and actually breaking the plastic oil filter housing off the engine.

Homac wrote: <<The oil filler cap is somewhat of a click/lock design>>
I haven't experienced this. I think it just screws on. The plastic threads seem to catch/grab a bit and maybe this is what the OP experienced. I wouldn't use that as an indication of proper tightness.

Matt09 · Aug 28, 2015

Fumoto oil drain valve

Nice picture of the Fumoto valve. I work for Fumoto Engineering of America. Those little valves are awesome!:smile:

Dodgeboy · Aug 29, 2015

Homac wrote: <<The oil filler cap is somewhat of a click/lock design>>

I misread that originally and thought Homac said oil 'filter' cap. D'oh! Homac is correct and ignore what I said at the end of Post 22.

Wisconsin Mike · Aug 31, 2015

I really like Fumoto valves, also. My first "quick drain valve" was a Fram Sure-Drain. The Fumoto is MUCH better! I've installed them on 3 cars and have never had any issues whatsoever.

My dealer offered a lifetime powertrain warranty which requires me to get routine service done at a Chrysler dealer; otherwise I'd be getting a Fumoto valve for this Cherokee, too. Fortunately the dealership sells multiple oil changes in a package. I bought 8 oil changes with 8 tire rotations for $205. That's about $25 each. I can't even buy the oil and filter for that.

taatmk · Aug 31, 2015

I have had only two oil changes since we purchased our 2015 back in September 2014. I am coming up on both the one year anniversary of our purchase, as well as time for the third change. Anyone else have three changes in this first year (or what has been your experience)?

Kevin@kamloops · Aug 31, 2015

One Oil change for me , Coming up to the one year next month , Still have around 40% left on this Oil . I changed the factory stuff out early at 52%. Going to leave this synthetic Pennzoil till less than 10%.

ladydulayne · Aug 31, 2015

Hey, when is everyone else changing their oil? My dash is saying I am at 19%. At what point have people seen it say "Change"?

I will likely change in the next 2 weeks.

Kevin@kamloops · Aug 31, 2015

No harm in following the manual , At least every 10,000 miles or every year , Which ever is sooner , Or you can just go by the Oil change Indicator , Change when it drops below 10% .

First Oil Change - 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk

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