Battery died and is acting up? - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Battery died and is acting up?

Long story short, had my hazards on for maybe 25 minutes, while I was flagging. Got back to the Jeep tried to start it and it wouldn't start, assumed the battery died and of course the crew I was with had no jumper cables so I dished out a ridiculous 35 bucks for cables at the auto part store. Ended up getting the Jeep jumped and everything was fine. Did a 30 mile drive home, mostly highway. This morning got out to the Jeep and started it but you could tell it struggled a little but it started up fine. I tried pressing the gas pedal a little to give it a little juice but it wasnt revving the engine at all, like nothing when the gas pedal was to the floor. So I put it in drive and release the parking break and it took a few seconds but it kicked in and started driving, at that point I could rev the engine like regular.

Made a quick stop to the bank and when I got back to the Jeep to start it, it wouldn't start. Turned it off removed the key for like 15 seconds, and tried starting it and it slowly/dyingly did. Drove my 20 miles to work and all was fine. Then I started to look at the battery voltage on the display, and while the engine is off and key is in run position it's at 11v give or take a few at certain times. When I go to start it and it gets up and running, it's just under 14v which I know it should be at like 14.2 or something when normal.

When I got to work I turned it off for maybe an hour. We had to go to a work site so I tried starting it, and like before it didnt start on first try. Tried again and it started, tried revving when it started and it died, then I just tried starting it and left it alone for a minute before I could drive off.
Anyway check engine light came on and now I'm gonna go to the dealership to see what's up. **** Jeep couldn't wait 2 more freaking days, I had a oil change scheduled for Saturday ugh.

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2014 Cherokee Sport AWD 2.4L I4 16V
Mileage: 27k+, Bought @ 18K in 2016
Issues: 2 = Ignition Coil & Battery went bad, Both replaced under warranty

Status: Running perfectly


Upgrades:
* Uconnect 8.4 RA4 w/ Nav
* Interior LED foot well lights
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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 02:18 PM
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Sounds like the battery is on its last leg. Not too unusual unfortunately. Let's hope if it is the battery, it is covered under warranty. Keep us posted...

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2014 Trail Hawk | 3.2 V6 | Tow Package | Cherry Red | Brown Leather | Hood Decal | Cold Weather | 8.4AN | 9 Speaker | CD Player | Black Wheels | Comfort Package
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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shemmar360 View Post
Long story short, had my hazards on for maybe 25 minutes, while I was flagging. Got back to the Jeep tried to start it and it wouldn't start, assumed the battery died and of course the crew I was with had no jumper cables so I dished out a ridiculous 35 bucks for cables at the auto part store. Ended up getting the Jeep jumped and everything was fine. Did a 30 mile drive home, mostly highway. This morning got out to the Jeep and started it but you could tell it struggled a little but it started up fine. I tried pressing the gas pedal a little to give it a little juice but it wasnt revving the engine at all, like nothing when the gas pedal was to the floor. So I put it in drive and release the parking break and it took a few seconds but it kicked in and started driving, at that point I could rev the engine like regular.

Made a quick stop to the bank and when I got back to the Jeep to start it, it wouldn't start. Turned it off removed the key for like 15 seconds, and tried starting it and it slowly/dyingly did. Drove my 20 miles to work and all was fine. Then I started to look at the battery voltage on the display, and while the engine is off and key is in run position it's at 11v give or take a few at certain times. When I go to start it and it gets up and running, it's just under 14v which I know it should be at like 14.2 or something when normal.

When I got to work I turned it off for maybe an hour. We had to go to a work site so I tried starting it, and like before it didnt start on first try. Tried again and it started, tried revving when it started and it died, then I just tried starting it and left it alone for a minute before I could drive off.
Anyway check engine light came on and now I'm gonna go to the dealership to see what's up. **** Jeep couldn't wait 2 more freaking days, I had a oil change scheduled for Saturday ugh.

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It does sound like the battery is toast. When you flag like that, do you leave the ignition in ACC ? Or just the hazards no ignition ?

I forget if the battery is covered under the basic 3/36 warranty, I think it is, so you should be Ok... You have the 2.4 so you won't get an AGM battery as they are roughly twice the price of a similar sized wet battery.
If they give you trouble with the warranty, let us know.

BTW 11V at rest is way too low, it should be 12.4V - 12.6V for a wet battery. A healthy battery on a full alternator charge should show 14.4V, not just below 14V, so yeah the battery is no longer accepting a full charge...

Good luck

Edit to add some advice for the future : whenever you drain a car battery, you should always charge it with a smart battery charger ASAP. Driving around for less than 30 minutes doesn't do it, and a car alternator isn't really good at charging discharged batteries... Charging them quickly reduces the risk / the amount of permanent damage, especially in the winter...

My avatar is the Elder Predator (goes well with my forum status and overall temper )
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Last edited by Mark_; 02-02-2017 at 04:05 PM.
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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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It does sound like the battery is toast. When you flag like that, do you leave the ignition in ACC ? Or just the hazards no ignition ?

I forget if the battery is covered under the basic 3/36 warranty, I think it is, so you should be Ok... You have the 2.4 so you won't get an AGM battery as they are roughly twice the price of a similar sized wet battery.
If they give you trouble with the warranty, let us know.

BTW 11V at rest is way too low, it should be 12.4V - 12.6V for a wet battery. A healthy battery on a full alternator charge should show 14.4V, not just below 14V, so yeah the battery is no longer accepting a full charge...

Good luck

Edit to add some advice for the future : whenever you drain a car battery, you should always charge it with a smart battery charger ASAP. Driving around for less than 30 minutes doesn't do it, and a car alternator isn't really good at charging discharged batteries... Charging them quickly reduces the risk / the amount of permanent damage, especially in the winter...
When I leave it I take the key with me and leave the hazards on.



Just got to the dealership at about 3:30pm after work. At 4 my service rep came back and said it looks like the battery but they're gonna have to hook it up to some battery tester machine that they have but apparently it takes 1.5 hrs for it to check whether the battery is good or not. Rep said the mechanics leaves in a half an hour so they won't be able to do it until tomorrow ugh.

Guess I'll be driving the Camry to work tomorrow, at least I know it's reliable.


Still can't understand how 25 mins with hazards on can do this, just crazy.

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2014 Cherokee Sport AWD 2.4L I4 16V
Mileage: 27k+, Bought @ 18K in 2016
Issues: 2 = Ignition Coil & Battery went bad, Both replaced under warranty

Status: Running perfectly


Upgrades:
* Uconnect 8.4 RA4 w/ Nav
* Interior LED foot well lights
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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by shemmar360 View Post
When I leave it I take the key with me and leave the hazards on.



Just got to the dealership at about 3:30pm after work. At 4 my service rep came back and said it looks like the battery but they're gonna have to hook it up to some battery tester machine that they have but apparently it takes 1.5 hrs for it to check whether the battery is good or not. Rep said the mechanics leaves in a half an hour so they won't be able to do it until tomorrow ugh.

Guess I'll be driving the Camry to work tomorrow, at least I know it's reliable.


Still can't understand how 25 mins with hazards on can do this, just crazy.

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One 25 min run of hazards did not do this. It is/was a cumulative of draining episodes with too little charging in between that did the battery in, most likely. And add to that what seems to be a trend with the 2.4L wet batteries showing up with early failure due to a bad cell. It could be partly (maybe entirely..?) because of a battery defect, and hopefully the present batch is a better one. We've had quite a few 2014 2.4L owners show up on the forum with a dead/dying battery...
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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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One 25 min run of hazards did not do this. It is/was a cumulative of draining episodes with too little charging in between that did the battery in, most likely. And add to that what seems to be a trend with the 2.4L wet batteries showing up with early failure due to a bad cell. It could be partly (maybe entirely..?) because of a battery defect, and hopefully the present batch is a better one. We've had quite a few 2014 2.4L owners show up on the forum with a dead/dying battery...
My lights are always turned off, when the car is off and I'm still in it. The only light that prob stays on is the footwell lights I connected up to the fuse box, but I turn that off the power for those lights whenever I leave the Jeep and it remains off until I turn it back on the next day or something. I know that none of the fuses turn off with my Jeep, and even though the Footlight light was off do you think it played a role in it? I rarely ever turn on my hazards on and even if I do it's not for too long, and I'd think my 36-55min drive home would do the battery some good if I had the hazards on for a bit. One other thing, I recently replaced the interior dome lights in the Jeep with these that I bought off amazon, any chance it played a role too? I did notice that when I first installed them, and tried them out they looked great and were SO bright, however the first few times I turned them on and off. Even though it would turn off, sometimes I could still see like a tiny bit of light out of the front some bulbs. Sometimes it's there when it's off sometimes it isn't idk how to explain it.



Efoxcity 10pcs Bright White T10 / 194 168 2825 W5W 2835 20SMD LED Bulb For Car Replacement Lights License Plate Blub Door Reading Interior Lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8LJK04..._-A7Kyb0M7PRA4

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

2014 Cherokee Sport AWD 2.4L I4 16V
Mileage: 27k+, Bought @ 18K in 2016
Issues: 2 = Ignition Coil & Battery went bad, Both replaced under warranty

Status: Running perfectly


Upgrades:
* Uconnect 8.4 RA4 w/ Nav
* Interior LED foot well lights
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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
It does sound like the battery is toast. When you flag like that, do you leave the ignition in ACC ? Or just the hazards no ignition ?

I forget if the battery is covered under the basic 3/36 warranty, I think it is, so you should be Ok... You have the 2.4 so you won't get an AGM battery as they are roughly twice the price of a similar sized wet battery.
If they give you trouble with the warranty, let us know.

BTW 11V at rest is way too low, it should be 12.4V - 12.6V for a wet battery. A healthy battery on a full alternator charge should show 14.4V, not just below 14V, so yeah the battery is no longer accepting a full charge...

Good luck

Edit to add some advice for the future : whenever you drain a car battery, you should always charge it with a smart battery charger ASAP. Driving around for less than 30 minutes doesn't do it, and a car alternator isn't really good at charging discharged batteries... Charging them quickly reduces the risk / the amount of permanent damage, especially in the winter...
The battery goes under the 3/36 basic warranty. On the third battery for my 2014 Trailhawk. First one died after 14 months and replaced by Jeep. Second one went out at 30 months but I had to pay for it since I was over 46K miles. I ended up getting another Mopar since it was dead on a Saturday and I had gotten it over to Jeep to test the charging system. At least they installed it for free. Optima presently does not have a direct replacement of the correct group size. Odyssey has the correct direct replacement but was out of stock everywhere local and would take a week to get.
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 08:01 PM
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The battery goes under the 3/36 basic warranty. On the third battery for my 2014 Trailhawk. First one died after 14 months and replaced by Jeep. Second one went out at 30 months but I had to pay for it since I was over 46K miles. I ended up getting another Mopar since it was dead on a Saturday and I had gotten it over to Jeep to test the charging system. At least they installed it for free. Optima presently does not have a direct replacement of the correct group size. Odyssey has the correct direct replacement but was out of stock everywhere local and would take a week to get.
Yikes...
Do you have driving habits thtat put a battery at risk like that ? I'm just curious because if not, then... even the later batches of wet Mopar KL batteries could be junk...

Recommended batteries for 2.4L KLs are group 48 (or H6 which is the same). For the V6s it's group 94R, which are slightly bigger (same height and width as group 48 but 1.5" longer). I'm pretty sure the tray is the same for 2.4 and 3.2 models, so the 94R would most likely fit...

Regardless, here is an excellent group 48 made by Northstar (branded X2 Power) :
https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...cca/sli48agmdp
Their group 94R has 65 more CCA : https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...ca/sli94ragmdp

Exide group 48 AGMs seem pretty good and are sold under many different brands (DieHard, AC DElco, Motomaster in Canada, etc..)

This is an AGM Odyssey (good reputation as well) equivalent to group 48 here : https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-Batte.../dp/B00FAW8Q36

If the 94R fits... I wold consider getting that. I'll even look at mine to see if a group 27F would fit (same lenght and width as a group 94R, but 1.4" higher).

Always keep in mind when shopping for a battery, for these Cherokees, that the positive post is front right when looking at it with the posts at the front. Not sure about the 2.4s but in my 3.2 the battery faces back (turned 180°), so the positive post is far and left. Groups 48, 94R and 27F have the posts on the correct side for Cherokees.

My avatar is the Elder Predator (goes well with my forum status and overall temper )
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Last edited by Mark_; 02-03-2017 at 04:39 PM. Reason: I had to replace group 24F with 27F (my bad)
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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 08:18 PM
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The forum won't let me edit my above post (sorry about the typos folks...).

Battery tray part# is the same for 2.4L and 3.2L models, so group 94R most likely fit in 2.4 KLs as well. Anyone needing a new battery, wishing to keep the Jeep a long time could consider the 94R's higher cranking Amp and reserve capacity over the group 48 batteries. And spending more on an AGM battery may also be a good investment for long battery life...

Here's the battery tray : https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-...ItNGwtbDQtZ2Fz
(it doesn't say 2014 Cherokees at bottom, just 2015-2016 2.4 and 3.2, but that is an oversight on their part because it fits 2014s)
Edit : it does say 2014s, you just have to click on the little symbol below...

My avatar is the Elder Predator (goes well with my forum status and overall temper )
2015 North (Canada) - V6 - AD1
Cold, Tow, 8.4A, 9 speakers with sub

Last edited by Mark_; 02-02-2017 at 08:23 PM.
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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
The forum won't let me edit my above post (sorry about the typos folks...).

Battery tray part# is the same for 2.4L and 3.2L models, so group 94R most likely fit in 2.4 KLs as well. Anyone needing a new battery, wishing to keep the Jeep a long time could consider the 94R's higher cranking Amp and reserve capacity over the group 48 batteries. And spending more on an AGM battery may also be a good investment for long battery life...

Here's the battery tray : https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-...ItNGwtbDQtZ2Fz
(it doesn't say 2014 Cherokees at bottom, just 2015-2016 2.4 and 3.2, but that is an oversight on their part because it fits 2014s)
Edit : it does say 2014s, you just have to click on the little symbol below...
I've got the 3.2 in my Trailhawk with the AGM battery. Driving patterns/use are nothing out of the ordinary. Both times the Tech said their test showed a dead cell in the battery. The first one failed all of a sudden. The second one showed early signs of pending failure with the starter struggling to turn over the engine first noticeable about a week before it finally died.

I'm thinking I've been unlucky enough to get crappy AGM batteries from wherever Mopar is sourcing them. The KL is my personal vehicle that I drive quite a bit for work. My previous company fleet vehicle was a RAM 1500 I drove for two years without a single charging system or battery issue. The one before the RAM was a Jeep Liberty for five years with no issues also. I've got Optima Red and Yellow top batteries in other personal vehicles with no issues.

Last edited by StealthHawk; 02-02-2017 at 09:20 PM.
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