Flat towing setup - Page 3 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #21 of 108 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kannonvaggon View Post
Thanks for the update, and glad your installation went well at Cliff's !

Are you missing the center intake grill in front of the radiator stack or am I being goofy yet again??
Mine is at the interior shop in Mesa today getting the seats tweaked a bit so I can't run out and take a look...

I dunno...
Good eyes! Yes, they didn't install the intake grill - I only saw it when I got back home. In the meantime it is back in place.
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post #22 of 108 (permalink) Old 02-18-2014, 06:48 PM
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I had the roadmaster baseplates installed this weekend and am very pleased.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3

Minimal cutting of the grill, and the breakaway leads come through a factory-installed grommet in the firewall.

The base plates do go in place of the tow hooks, and they are pretty impressive - ~1" bolts, 10" long, etc.
-dan
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post #23 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 08:05 PM
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We have almost the same set up and hopefully will be able to start flat towing next weekend. When the RV shop did the electrical connection from the motorhome to the car it blew a fuse and we had to have the car towed to the Jeep dealer as the car would not only not start, the parking brake locked up. The RV service company is a very reputible company, but this is the first 2014 Cherokee they have done so I think it's trial and error. Might you have the phone number and a name of someone we can talk to regarding the electrical hook up for the Cherokee?

Please advise, and thank you in advance,

KW
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post #24 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-02-2014, 11:59 AM
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When the RV shop did the electrical connection from the motorhome to the car it blew a fuse
For those of us about to go through the same thing, please describe as much as you can about what caused the fuse to blow. What fuse was it? What was the shop doing that might have caused it to blow?

Thanks much
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post #25 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-06-2014, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Yikes.... don't need no electrical klutzing .....

My TH goes in next week to have the baseplate/ lamp wiring/ brake system installed.

I'm asking this shop to maybe take my old used BO pins and weld on the OEM front tow hooks so maybe I could just put em on and it would look and function pretty much like an original TH when it's not being towed which is most of the time obviously. Hate to lose those tow hooks but it's not the end of the world. We'll see, not sure if there is enough clearance to put the hooks back on and not have them sticking out like a sore thumb .....

Cliff's welding shop in Mesa, AZ said they had the baseplates ( Blue Ox and Roadmaster ) in stock on the shelf now. They have done three TH models already and have apparently already done the install of the AF1 air brake system like I removed from my former Wrangler and want installed on the TH.

I'll let ya'll know how this goes next week. I'm looking forward to getting this job completed since it's been hanging over my head for a couple months now. Early adoption is not always the simplest environment... We won't need to tow until probably late April or so. I just want it DONE.

2014 TrailHawk with hood decal removed
V6, Tow, leather, 8.4AN, etc...
Billet Silver under the desert dust
Blue Ox base plate, custom lamp harness/diodes
AF1 air brake system with break-away
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post #26 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Got the base plate/ lamp wiring / air brake system install done today at Cliff's Welding in Mesa, AZ....

The AF1 control unit went behind the bumper bar just fine.
The TH model requires an air "switch" since the vehicle brake switch is apparently hot on both sides all the time. This a slight additional charge item and needs to be ordered with the base plate unit FYI if your doing this stuff yourself ....

I am pleased with the install in general, except that underneath the tab pin cutouts they left rough plastic edges.... which I'll sand down properly with a dremel one day soon. Looks good except if yer laying on the ground looking at stuff and then it looked like they trimmed the opening with a chainsaw .... well, I might be a little harsh on that one ....

Seems OK. Have yet to hook the TH up to the coach and test stuff, but it " oughta work OK" as they say .....

Yet another job, done probably maybe hopefully ....

The tab pins on this BO base plate are much longer than the one's I took off the Wrangler plate unit. can't reuse them to install the tow hooks for a custom look .... Not a problem since the base units have large holes for the safety cable hooks and this will work easily with a snatch strap. It just lacks that RED paint! So, now I have an almost new set of front tow hooks for a TH layin on the shelf in the shed ..... along with some other bits and pieces that got replaced...

Life is GOOD!

2014 TrailHawk with hood decal removed
V6, Tow, leather, 8.4AN, etc...
Billet Silver under the desert dust
Blue Ox base plate, custom lamp harness/diodes
AF1 air brake system with break-away

Last edited by kannonvaggon; 03-11-2014 at 08:50 PM.
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post #27 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 09:22 PM
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Kannonvaggon,

I am also getting my Cherokee set up for towing next month. I will be using the SMI Air Force One and the roadmaster base plate.

I am not sure what you are referring to in this statement that you made:

"The TH model requires an air "switch" since the vehicle brake switch is apparently hot on both sides all the time. This a slight additional charge item and needs to be ordered with the base plate unit FYI if your doing this stuff yourself ...."

What, where is the air switch. I am having this done by a Camping World in NH. Will they know what to do or should I tell them about this? What base plate are you using?

Thanks,

Stuart

Ordered 12/21/13, arrived 2/7/14. Cashmere Limited, luxury, tow, sun roof, 6 cyl, AD 2. Being Towed behind a Holiday Rambler Navigator, 45 foot motorhome, Cummins IXS 600 HP.
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post #28 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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The AF1 will need an air switch to operate fully on the TH. I use BO, but it wouldn't matter which base plate is mounted since it's a function actually of the way the AF1 works. I THINK the switch is only needed to work the indicator lamp, but not sure on that ....
The shop that installs the AF1 should know what's needed and it's not a big deal just something that isn't used on a "typical" Jeep install . Supposedly they usually pick up the lamp lead off the toad's brake switch, but apparently it's hot on both sides all the time, so a switch that operates when air goes to the braking actuator cylinder under the brake pedal will do the deed instead. At least that's how I interpreted it. My shop mentioned that they don't know if the air switch is needed until they work on the install job. Ya wouldn't need a switch to operate the TOAD lamps since they are gonna be powered off the tow vehicle....

Good Luck!

2014 TrailHawk with hood decal removed
V6, Tow, leather, 8.4AN, etc...
Billet Silver under the desert dust
Blue Ox base plate, custom lamp harness/diodes
AF1 air brake system with break-away
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post #29 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 09:23 PM
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Thank you Kannonvaggon,

I will check all of this out before getting it installed. My plan is to have it done mid April.

Stuart

Ordered 12/21/13, arrived 2/7/14. Cashmere Limited, luxury, tow, sun roof, 6 cyl, AD 2. Being Towed behind a Holiday Rambler Navigator, 45 foot motorhome, Cummins IXS 600 HP.
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post #30 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 09:10 PM
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Blue Ox baseplate (BX1135) and RoadMaster Invisibrake installed

Both base plate and Invisibrake done today at Camping World in Tampa. (Limited with ACC) They had done an Invisibrake on a Cherokee last week so I wasn't the guinea pig. Took all day from 8:30 am to 4:30 PM. All seemed to have gone smoothly although the Parking Assist didn't want to play nice when I first turned the car on - gave me an error that it needed service. It is OK after the 45 min drive home. I'll see if it is OK tomorrow. I think it may be a loose wire.

I had installed a light diode kit myself but I couldn't pass up the $39 install special at Camping World.

The installer worked with me to position the brake away switch. There really isn't a good place for it. Another Cherokee was in the parking lot and it had the brake away mounted to the lower valance but it seemed to be way too low to access easily and would be an easy target for a curb.

This picture shows the base plate mounting without the removable connector, the brake away, the 4-wire flat light connection, the Invisibrake indicator connector for it's LED that goes on the RV dashboard, and the yellow plug for a Toad Charge.
http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html
Click image for larger version

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The Toad Charge provides a 10 amp charge of the Cherokee's battery. This is in place of the 2 amp charge that is provided by the Invisbrake set up. (I used a 120V plug rather than the small plug that comes with the Toad Charge. I'm going to write 12V ONLY on the plug so some helpful person doesn't plug it into an engine heater.)

I could have used a flat 5-wire connector and integrated the Invisibrake LED wire to eliminate a separate plug.

And this picture shows the Invisbrake unit mounted under the drive seat. It does take away foot room but it fits well.
Click image for larger version

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