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Shifting to Neutral for Towing Behind Motorhome

31K views 61 replies 9 participants last post by  steve1945 
#1 ·
Towed my Cherokee Limited with Active Drive II the first time yesterday. Once the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) was shifted into Neutral, some of the last procedures are to start the engine and while the engine is running, shift the transmission into Park, then turn the engine off. When shifting the transmission into Park, it made a very noticeable spring/sprung coil/recoil noise. I guess this is actuator noise related to the PTU. Does anyone else experience this noise/event when going through the Neutral process for towing? If so, do you think it is normal? Do you have any other input of this process?
Thank you.
 
#2 ·
Shifting to neutral for towing behind MH

I just pulled my Latitude from CO to Tx with no problems. What you need to do is re-read your book on towing. After the P T U is in Neutral, and the light stayed on solid,

Start the engine
Shift the transmission into reverse
RELEASE the brake pedal for 5 seconds
Shift into Neutral
Shift into park, turn engine off, remove keychain

I think releasing the brake pedal is the key here. And no, mine does not make a sound. Be sure you are waiting for the P T U to finish shifting, it takes a few seconds.

JudieBabe
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the motivation to do it first time to my new Limited AD2. Printed out the instructions and got in the car and shifted the PTU into neutral. No noises except for the whirring of the actuator motors going both into and out of neutral and applying/releasing the park brake. Based on your comments, it appears you missed steps 9 and 10 below as JudieBabe suggested above:

7. After the shift is completed and the NEUTRAL (N)
light stays on, release the NEUTRAL (N) button.
8. Start the engine.
9. Shift the transmission into REVERSE.
10. Release the brake pedal for five seconds and ensure
that there is no vehicle movement.
11. Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL.
12. Apply the parking brake.
13. Shift the transmission into PARK, turn the engine
OFF, and remove the key fob.
 
#4 ·
Nope, did not miss the steps, just didn't type them. I think your comments "whirring of the actuator motors going both into and out of neutral" is the noise I heard. I did not have any problems either. I was concerned about the noise. I wonder if JudieBabe's did not create the noise. I think a noise that noticeable should be mentioned in the Owner's Manual, so the owner will know what to expect. Oh, on reaching my destination, it shifted out of Neutral with no problem. Thanks for your input.
 
#5 ·
On noise level, I was sitting in a very quiet setting (the garage) and I had the windows open so I could hear what was going on. But I did not hear any noticeable spring/sprung coil/recoil noises. If I was not in that setting, I wouldn't have heard it. For example it's the first time I've heard the park brake actuator. Previously I could only feel it in the brake pedal.
 
#6 ·
I also own a 4x4 2004 Colorado pickup. Some my friends have that model truck, or a GMC Canyon, they tow behind their motorhome. They turn their engine off before shifting the gear shift to Park, to keep the actuators from making that noise and doing whatever they are doing. Before they bought their pickups, I towed mine about 350 miles. When doing so, I shifted into Park with the engine running and the actuators did their thing, and when I arrived two of the actuators were stuck. The unstuck over the next 4 or 5 miles, but Chevy eventually replaced one of them under warranty. I now tow my Colorado by turning the engine off before shifting to Park and have never had anymore trouble. In this case, the owner's manual does not tell you when to turn the engine off, but I guess it assumes you will at some point.

The above is the reason for my concern, when I heard the actuator noise when shifting into Park. I would consider the noise made by my Cherokee to be loud enough to be easily heard. I have towed my new Cherokee from Little Rock to Alabama and still have 250 miles before getting home to Georgia. I will contact my Jeep dealer there about this.

Thanks again.
 
#7 ·
Make SURE you do NOT have the E-brake set on AUTOMATIC ! You could end up with the brake on when towing..... just saying ..... Have it set on manual and ALWAYS check that the E-brake is actually OFF before you shut that door. If you try to get the PTU into neutral and have your door open bad stuff can also happen and the parking brake will set all by itself and if you don't check this you will not be a happy camper....

ALWAYS check that all your wheels are turning freely when pulling out of your site, right after you test all the lamps AND check your break-away every now and then to actually work.

jus sayin....

My TH goes in and out of PTU neutral fairly well with a very slight grawnch putting the tranny into park with the engine running. I've have to go through the procedure twice on a couple of occasions since the program did not complete that I could tell. It takes maybe 10 seconds or so sometimes. I think this is one routine that you should do often, or it may not work when you need it. There is no " simple manual work around " to get the PTU in or out of neutral that I've seen so far. Either the buttons work.... or they do not.
So far I've had no problems and the TH tows very well.

YMMV
 
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#8 ·
Thanks! Very good advice. I plan on following the procedures completely. I have already noticed the E-Brake does not always immediately release and has to be held sometimes before it the light goes off.
 
#9 ·
Has anyone used the "Brake Service Mode... actuator retraction" [ref: 2014 OM p. 457, 2015 OM pp. 516-517] during towing? This seems to be a sure method of avoiding the EPB from coming on.
 
#10 ·
I haven't. Sounds innocuous enough. However the 2015 manual says: "You should only enter Brake Service Mode during brake service." Should probably discuss with a good Jeep brake technician.
 
#11 ·
Good idea on that.

Here's my thinking on the neutral and towing issue: We occasionbally have some long runs where we'll "Walmart-it" for one or two nights in a row before getting to our destination. On those overnights all I do is leave the car locked and hooked up... the next AM I get up, start the car and warm up the fluids before proceding to tow. My concern is on those early mornings, I may "slip-up" and accidentally engage the park brake... or rather, forget to disengage it. If in "service-retracted" mode I figure it'd ensure the auto parkbrake will be disengaged.

This raises another issue with the Cherokee. Going back a few vehicles the manufacturer had published instructions on towing limitations, e.g the number of hours or miles to tow before stopping and running the engine/shifting trans... .as well as some other restrictions or guidelines such as max speed when towing... etc. I've see n nothing like that for the Cherokee.
 
#14 ·
@rpasetto - Thanks for the tip on the charge wire.

Grandriver125 at Jeep Garage said Brake Buddy sent him a free replacement clevis for the Cherokee so I emailed them and it came in last week.
 
#15 ·
@rpasetto - Thanks for the tip on the charge wire.

Grandriver125 at Jeep Garage said Brake Buddy sent him a free replacement clevis for the Cherokee so I emailed them and it came in last week.
I also received the "replacement clevis". It's nothing like the standard one; basically it's a clamp to attach to the brake arm with bolts and nut. Amateurish in design, I think. It'd be a little better if it used a lever-clamp arrangement; even thumbscrews would be better than having to use a wrench.

The best choice would be for a wider stronger upper clevis fork.
 
#17 ·
The one they sent me is very different... I'll post picts later.

What is the opening dimension of the top fork? You picture looks like the original clevis that came with my brk buddy ... but maybe the top fork opening is wider. i had to grind about 1/4" on each side if the fork on mine to make it fit the brake pedal arm on my trailhawk.. I would still like to get a factory made one, though.
 
#18 ·
1 3/8 inches. All my measurements are with a caliper.

My old one is 1 1/4 inches. Yikes, it's only an eighth of an inch wider. The brake pedal arm is 1 5/8 inches. As you can tell, the clevis BrakeBuddy sent me will not slide down around the brake pedal arm. However, it does grab around the back of the brake pedal metal part and when the lever is pushed down to lock it in I cannot pull it off. I'm going with it. The red lever on my old one never locked and seemed useless. The new one locks tight.
 
#20 ·
I guess this has turned into a thread on using BrakeBuddy... :smile:
I widened mine to 1 1/2" using a grinder and now it fits around the brake pedal arm. I think granddriver (from the other forum) mentioned that he had his original widened using a bandsaw. grinder can do the same. I post picts of an original clevis and the widened one later.

The plastic cam clamp lever (red or orange) can be sometimes tough to press into place, try a little silicone lube and push it really hard the first couple of times.
 
#29 ·
Another Auxilary Brake Question

I have the RVI Brake system. And, I have not used it yet with the Cherokee. One of the settings on the RVI system is the determination between Vacuum versus Active Assisted Brakes. They say that most vehicles have vacuum assist brakes, except mainly for the hybrids, which use Active assist brakes. Does anyone know for sure if the Cherokee does in fact have Vacuum assisted brakes?

Thanks, Bear

P.S. Update on shifting into Neutral. I have since towed by Cherokee twice and have had no trouble shifting into Neutral or out of Neutral, or getting the E-Park Brake off. Also, the noise that originally occurred when shifting into Park has not re-occurred.
 
#30 ·
RVI 2 Brake

I have the RVI Brake system. And, I have not used it yet with the Cherokee. One of the settings on the RVI system is the determination between Vacuum versus Active Assisted Brakes. They say that most vehicles have vacuum assist brakes, except mainly for the hybrids, which use Active assist brakes. Does anyone know for sure if the Cherokee does in fact have Vacuum assisted brakes?

Thanks, Bear

P.S. Update on shifting into Neutral. I have since towed by Cherokee twice and have had no trouble shifting into Neutral or out of Neutral, or getting the E-Park Brake off. Also, the noise that originally occurred when shifting into Park has not re-occurred.

Hello,


Will be purchasing the RVI 2 brake next week. Are you satisfied with yours? What coach are you towing your Cherokee with?


Coyote99
 
#32 ·
I'm getting ready for a fairly long trip and have a question, which I've asked elsewhere.

During the trip, many of the overnight stopovers will be either in a pull-through at a CG ,a Walmart or truckStop where the Cherokee will remain connected overnight. While driving there''s a charge wire from the MH which I expect to handle any power requirement while rolling from Buddy or other. (I will probably unplug the Brake Buddy overnight.)

To those of you who've mentioned your extended trips, I'd like to know what if anything, you do with the Cherokee on overnights.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I discovered that Photobucket uploads are easily inserted so I used it to upload the images I spoke of earlier. Here's the first replacement Clevis from BrakeBuddy, for all to see...


And the instructions.


I do not know how or on what application this would be workable. Consider that it bolts to the pedal arm in one place and any force on it would torque th attachment rod toward the front of the car ... as opposed to depressing the pedal... I still haven't received the replacement like Array posted. .... comments????
 
#34 ·
The Cherokee has a vacuum assisted hydraulic brake system.

On electrical drain.... We have a COACH AIR operated toad brake system that uses very little electrical energy. I do NOT have a charge lead to the toad. I have towed 4 or 5 days in a row without unhooking the TH. No fuses pulled. No problems.

If you have a portable system or one that operates electrically via the toad battery, then I would indeed suggest a charge lead from the coach just to keep up your toad battery in a good charge state. I would also disconnect the system overnight to reduce the small residual load it may have if for instance you have a slight internal compressor leak or some such .... Shouldn't be any big problem with a charging lead. I would hope that a portable unit would not have much draw on the toad battery for at least a couple days travel, but it would suck to find your toad battery dead due to some system malfunction or other.

Just be sure with that type of system to adjust the unit to prevent inadvertent brake application or continuous brake application when on long grades. Ya don't wanna overheat and warp the rotors , or worse .... I've never been a big fan of portable brake systems, but I do understand the choice especially if you have multiple towed vehicles to deal with.
 
#35 ·
Thanks for the info, @kannonvaggon Yes, I always remove the BBuddy power overnight.
 
#38 ·
As for the Custom Plate, I have not tried my RVI Brake System on my Cherokee yet, but will next week. When I had towed the Ford Escape, it required one and they sent me a small piece of flat bar to bolt on to the bottom of the seat near the floor board. I did not like that and made me a partial wooden box that I can insert the RVI into and it fits completely across the seat at the bottom. it is not permanently installed and I take it out each time with the RVI brake. I have used it for four years with no problems. If necessary, I am sure it will also fit against the seat in the Cherokee.
 
#44 ·
Just completed a 2k Mile trip, MA to TX, and the clevis stayed on :)
 
#45 ·
Good to hear. Hope you had some good weather and a fine trip. You got back before the weather turns nasty.

Any unusual experiences on the trip?
 
#49 ·
Thanks for the heads up. While I've got the Cherokee set up now, I haven't towed it yet.
 
#50 ·
We found it worthwhile to do a few "test-tows" of a few miles before heading out on a long run.
 
#53 ·
Park

Why does the transmission need to be in park? It seems that if for whatever reason, if the transfer case kicked out of neutral, park would be a bad deal. I know you shouldn't tow it with the transfer case in anything but neutral, but if it it did kick out, having the transmission in neutral, while not good, would be better than park, which would either lock your wheels, or instantly break something expensive.
 
#55 ·
Why does the transmission need to be in park? It seems that if for whatever reason, if the transfer case kicked out of neutral, park would be a bad deal. I know you shouldn't tow it with the transfer case in anything but neutral, but if it it did kick out, having the transmission in neutral, while not good, would be better than park, which would either lock your wheels, or instantly break something expensive.
Back in the day, our manual-xfer-case equipped Cherokees also had to be put in park... or in gear for stick shift models.

I guess it has to do with preventing the trans from spinning uncontrolled without being lubed... that may affect wear.
 
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#54 ·
No idea why it has to be in Park. Also don't know why it cannot be towed in reverse or why it can't be dolly towed. Must be more going on than one would guess.
 
#56 ·
@rpasetto - Good guess.

On not towing it in reverse, I'm going to guess that driveline parts aren't machined to be run backwards for long periods of time at higher speeds. But I can't understand why it can't be dolly towed since the rear differential is allegedly disconnected from the driveshaft anyway. Sure wish there was an FCA employee on this board so they could run down answers to some of these technical questions.
 
#57 ·
@rpasetto - Good guess.

On not towing it in reverse, I'm going to guess that driveline parts aren't machined to be run backwards for long periods of time at higher speeds. But I can't understand why it can't be dolly towed since the rear differential is allegedly disconnected from the driveshaft anyway. Sure wish there was an FCA employee on this board so they could run down answers to some of these technical questions.
I think you're right about driveline components... not designed (or tested) to run in reverse at high speeds.

I think their concern in case of 4wd being dolly towed is that they never test or certify that mode ... or maybe wear on driveshaft and/or differential bearings. (No need to use dolly anyway with 4WD-AD2 jeep with neutral. )

Back in the day I recall learning that xfer cases which have lube pump at rear were OK to tow in neutral, since the pump provided necessary lubrication to gears within (back then most did but not all). Most auto trans did not lube unless engine was running to drive trans lube pump... then Honda (I think) came along with an auto trans where gears were always immersed in lubricant. Then Saturn , later other GM and Ford trans had this design which enabled some of their FWD and AWD cars to be certified for flat tow.

[I am reluctant to say it, since I've been a Mopar product fan for more than half a century, but after the Nav-Reset-Debacle I am reluctant to believe anything FCA says.]
 
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#58 · (Edited)
This answer is a long time past the original question (first post in this thread by BEARS1031), but, I found out what the noise is; After placing the PTU into neutral then putting the transmission into Reverse to check that the system is disengaged, if you go directly from Reverse to Park you will get the noise. You must go back to Neutral in the transmission before moving into Park. Feel free to ask how I found out ;-)
 
#60 ·
Simple - just go from Reverse to Park while the PTU is in Neutral. It's a soft noise and wouldn't be causing damage, I don't think. ;-)

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
 
#61 ·
With the engine running and the transmission in Reverse and the PTU put in Neutral Mode (disengaging the transmission from the front differential and the drive shaft to the rear differential), there is no drag on the gears in the transmission such that going from Reverse to Park will grind the Park pawl since certain gears are still spinning. Moving the shift lever to Neutral allows the spinning gears to halt before slipping the shift lever up to Park.
 
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