Front brake and rotor replacement - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 3
Front brake and rotor replacement

First off I'd like to say I am not a mechanic. I am pretty handy and work for an auto parts manufacturer. I've changed brakes on a number of different vehicles, this had some similarities, but other things that you will need to be aware of BEFOREHAND. I'm going to explain as simply as possible.

Here it goes!

1) Jack it up! I lifted on the subframe and put jack stands just behind the wheels

2) I used my impact gun with a 19mm socket to remove the (5) wheel bolts

3) 14mm socket to remove (2) caliper bolts that mount caliper to caliper bracket

5) suspend caliper from spring with rope/bungee/wire

**if not changing rotors skip to 13 and ignore 15**

6) External Torx E-20 to remove (2) single use caliper bracket bolts--order (4 [to complete both sides]) 06510023AA From dealer in advance.

Note: three of mine came out with my impact gun @ 90 psi. The fourth wouldn't budge, even @ 120 psi. I fought with one bolt for an hour! The only way I got it was I turned the knuckle out, got a large breaker bar with a long pipe and cranked it out.

7) 5mm allen socket to remove rotor mount bolt

8) smack rotor with 3-5 lb hammer at 6-12-3-9 o'clock until released from rust

9) scour rust from hub with red pad/sand paper

10) apply antiseize to hub surface for future removal ease

11) install new rotor
*spray both sides of the surface of the rotor with brake cleaner

12) replace 5mm allen rotor mount bolt

13) pop old hardware out of caliper bracket
**pay attention to how they are in there!

14) lube hardware gap, place new hardware, lube new hardware

15) remount caliper bracket with NEW caliper mount bolts

16) install squealers on new pads (my OE were always on the end of the pad that pointed upwards) and lube the tabs and backing plate of the pad

17) pop new pads into bracket
*Easiest way is to put end with squealer in then use small flat-blade to lever the bottom tab into place.

18) compress Pistons back into caliper
*keep old pad on piston side and use caliper tool or c-clamp. Make sure it is fully pressed back in

19) remount caliper with 14mm bolts

20) remount wheel, hand tighten wheel bolts

21) repeat on the other side

22) lower truck and torque 19mm wheel studs using star torque sequence

I'm sure I left things out, but I tried! Sorry no pictures, I was also watching my three year old at the time!

Hope this helps!
Array, Mudman1 and rumrunner like this.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 08:34 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: West Central Illinois by the old Mississippi.
Posts: 3,768
" **if not changing rotors skip to 13 and ignore 15**"
If you do not touch the rotors, that is resurface or replace you are wasting your time and money on doing your own brake job.
Rotors need to be serviced with every brake job.

Basically that is why my vehicles go into the dealer for brake jobs when needed. And that has been a rare occurrence with the previous 3 Jeeps.
Having the rotors resurfaced because of warping is the biggest issue I have had with any of my Jeeps. Usually the front rotors get serviced 2 maybe 3 times before the pads need to be replaced. That can be 60k+ miles.

But your write up is good information for those that are inclined to tackle that job. For me its way to messy and I'd worry that I left a clip or bolt off the finished job.
My wife always complains that I have parts left over and on my brakes I do not want that.

Mudman1 likes this.

2014 Cherokee Limited 4x4
V6 w/ AD2
Tech Group (both parts)
Luxury Group
Tow Group
Cherry Red
12/11/13 build
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