Thank you for your help.
I got a resolution number from FCA after two emails and a long phone conversation.
It will take at least 4-5 days to get me back so in the meantime I`ll replace the oil first thing tomorrow because I need the car.
There is four types of oil I can easily buy in my area, do you have any experience or advice?
- NULON 5W20 FULL SYNTHETIC FUEL CONSERVING ENGINE OIL
- MOBIL 1 FULL SYNTHETIC 5W20
- PENRITE ENIVRO PLUS ENIGINE OIL 5W20
- PENRITE ENIVRO PLUS ENIGINE OIL 0W20
Hi again and sorry for the delay... but had to sleep...
From that list, only the PENRITE 5W20 meets Chrysler MS-6395 spec.
Now when I said get that 10W30 oil out soon, I should have said *as soon as possible* at a dealership. Because you are in Australia, you should have the oil changed by a certified mechanic only. And because the dealership screwed up in the first place, you should have them replace the oil, so everything is properly documented should anything happen down the road... especially warranty issues...
You can drive a few days with 10W30.
But you should also consider what @Desoto
said about 10W30 in the Pentastars. Not a good idea, at all... and this is specific to the Pentastars so *conventional oil wisdom* may not (does not) apply here. Special case if you will.
There are a few misinformation or partial truths in this thread.
To put it all together, the first number is the winter rating it has nothing to do with the oil weight. A lower number means the oil will yield better viscosity at lower temperatures. a 10W-x oil will be much thicker at a cold temp than a 5W of the same weight and temp. The second number after the "w" is the viscosity (sometimes referred to as weight). This directly relates to the oil's lubrication capability and surface tension. The higher the number the "thicker" the oil.
Having said all that, The oil wight is very important. The oil jackets in the engine are designed to move oil of a specific weight. Furthermore, there are several friction type bearings that rely on the oil's surface tension to maintain tolerances. Today's engines require lighter oil because machining tolerances have improved. Additionally, there are more roller type bearings in the engine than these friction types that literally spin on a bed of oil.
Thicker oil is often used to quiet an oil high mileage engine as a way of compensating for the wear that has taken place. The problem with using it in a new engine is that it may not be getting to all the places it needs to go and will increase wear. Likely not to a point you will see immediate damage, but it will cause long term problems.
To the OP, your dealer hit you with a 1-2 whammy. Thicker oil with a higher winter rating during winter. I would request that they show you where the oil used is okay in the manual. When they don't find it, ask for it to be changed.
It's almost fall in Melbourne (a few days away from the solstice), but the "winter" there is like daytime highs in the high 50s and 60s.
And I agree that newer engines are built very differently than back in the days where we'd put in *winter* and *summer* oils. I really can't understand how a big FCA dealership can fill a 3.2 with 10W30... when a) it goes against the manual's recommendation, b) that specific Helix is semi-synthetic but even the 5W20 doesn't carry the MS-6395 spec. Having the correct engine oil at a dealership is... vital. FCA Australia needs to hear about this pronto.
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