Approach angle for TH question... - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Approach angle for TH question...

I read that the approach angle is 29.9 degrees on the Jeep website, but there's a caveat. It said two months ago with the "*Removable front lower fascia detached." Now it simply says "with the with front lower fascia removed." Is the front lower fascia really removable? Was it every removable?

Also what's the approach angle with the lower front fascia? I can't find that anywhere on Jeep.com.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 07:13 PM
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I have been trying to find out the answer for 3 years. The body shop that fixed my skid plate damage doesn't know.
My dealer doesn't know. The Product Specialists from Jeep doesn't know. We have tried to turn the twist screws and still can't get the panel off. The body shop guy couldn't remove the panel by turning the twist screws.
I have finally given up. I chewed the lower piece of plastic up pretty good on a rock but the panel is still there.
Does anyone have the answer?
According to my 2014 Jeep brochures (2) the approach angle is 29.9 degrees "(with air dam)" and 29.8 degrees with
"* Front lower fascia removed". The fine print is brutal!
This doesn't make sense, the approach angle should be greater with the air dam removed.
I remain totally confused!
This is what I did to increase my approach angle:
http://jeepcherokeeclub.com/attachme...7&d=1477776090

Last edited by sanghill; 03-19-2017 at 07:43 PM. Reason: add info
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanghill View Post
This is what I did to increase my approach angle:
http://jeepcherokeeclub.com/attachme...7&d=1477776090
Ha ha....love the approach angle mod!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:20 PM
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If it says without front facia they likely mean the grand Cherokee not the Cherokee. The Cherokee doesn't have anything that's removable.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:21 PM
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But I tried to climb a 30 degree RTI ramp and couldn't climb and not even a little without quite a bit of damage, I have proof. I was able to back up it though but had to be careful because the exhaust tips touched it.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:44 PM
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I backed up an obstacle at SOB Hill, which is on the Elephant Hill BOH trail. The "departure angle" is steeper and backing up helped at the obstacle.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:49 PM
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Actually, after looking I guess there is a way to remove the lower molding, but I've never done it and I don't recall seeing it in the manual.


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:52 PM
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Approach angle for TH question...




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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 12:58 AM
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I have only seen reference to removing the lower moulding on the GC Trailhawk info

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:23 AM
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I can tell you that you can remove almost all the lower cladding through either screws or body panel pins. There are only two points that I couldn't figure out to get the whole thing off and these involved riveted like pins. I couldn't get them off without a proper tool, and no i do not know where to buy said, proper tool.

These two points of contact were found as I started taking the plastic body molding off to access the headlights, from the rear, but in front of the first set of wheels. It took me a couple hours to work almost all the body molding off, with every sort of different sized screw and body panel pin, until I arrived at this last set of rivet-like metal pins that obviously needed a special tool.

It was at this point I decided to pay a guy to install everything from the top, down. I am pretty sure that these panels were designed not to be fully removed, unless it was to be replaced by a whole new fascia after collision repair. I just can't see how removal would give anybody a better angle of approach.

I did learn something during this exercise in futility though as I had my car through the underwash higher end Super Kiss at the Delta Sonic car wash as I wanted to be sure that I got as much salt out of the fascia and undercarriage as possible.

One. Zeibart people were idiots as they had sprayed rust inhibitor/undercoating directly on the plastic fascia throughout the front end and not a drop was actually sprayed onto the body panels or framed area in the front, of which a big part is actually aluminum where the engine/transaxle are.
2. I realized after having tons of dried up salt and dirt pour right into my face or shirt, that any return to Ziebart or any other like company was ridiculous because of all the different pieces of over-lapping plastic pieces held loads of salty grit no matter how often you did spray off your underside during the Winters in America's snowy rust belt. Even had they (Zeibart) been able to fully remove the entire front fascia going back to the front wheel, spraying anything on the metal would have made no difference as way too much powdery grit gets trapped in between the plastic paneling and would rub off.

I seriously do not think that this is a user serviceable piece that's meant to be removed before any off-road use.

There are just too many different types of fasteners and overall I just don't see that much difference in any angle of approach sans plastic guards. If you are going to scrap it. Scrap it. Better the plastic take the punishment than any metal are below the bumper.


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