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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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What a PITA today!

Took my Cherokee TH to get the tow harness installed from Jeep. From there, I drove right to body shop to get my tow plates installed and the cable for my ready brake ran. Well they told me they accidentally nicked a brake line when going through the firewall. They got a new brake booster, and installed it. I get home, and notice the brake lights are stuck on. I get under dash and find that the pedal is not coming back far enough for the switch. On top of that, my daughter asks what the switch in the center console is, and switches the TOW switch without the fuse in. Now I have a Check engine light, and my ODB scanner cannot seem to clear it. Anyone know what happens when you move that switch without the fuse? Anything I can do about Brake pedal not returning enough? I only ask as body shop not open again until Monday. Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 10:23 PM
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.... Anyone know what happens when you move that switch without the fuse?
You should be okay on the switch.

The switch disconnects the electric power steering (EPS) communications from the CAN bus. Assume the switch was flipped while the ignition was on. Otherwise it would not get upset. But while the engine is running, some of the computers on the bus don't like it when they lose communication with the EPS.

The check engine light should go away after several ignition cycles.

Edit to add:

If you have not received instructions for the kit, look at pages 1 and 2 of the instructions in this link: Severe shaking problem towing behind motorhome. Notice it says the check engine light goes away after several ignition cycles.
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Last edited by Array; 04-15-2017 at 12:16 AM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 12:48 AM
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.... Anything I can do about Brake pedal not returning enough?
Should be able to adjust behind the brake pedal. Sounds like the installer did not test properly either.

How to Adjust the Sling Cable
Loosen the nuts on both cable clamps. Connect the swaged cable loop
end to the clevis on the ReadyBrake lever (#1). Connect the spring clip
end to the loop of the cable connected to your brake pedal (#2). Adjust
the cable leaving enough slack that there is about a 2 inch drop in the
center (DO NOT MAKE THE CABLE TIGHT or it will pull your brakes
down the entire time). Tighten a cable clamp against the cable loop
sleeves (#2) so they can not move then tighten the other clamp toward
the middle.
Before testing please install the DL-100 or DL-300 monitor
system. To test, tow the vehicle at least 20 mph then apply brakes until
stopped. The actuator arm should be in an upward position pulling the
brake pedal down until you drive forward a few inches to release it. Have
a friend ride in the towed vehicle to see that the brake pedal is pulling
down and releasing as you stop while in a safe area like an empty
parking lot.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you! As you said, the engine light went away on it's own. Sorry if I did not explain correctly. They only ran the cable, but did not connect it for the ready brake. So the brake light being on has something to do with when they replaced the brake booster. I also just found that they have the side of the cable with the loop (Now I am talking Ready Brake) on this inside of the vehicle, and the regular uncut cable in the front. Debating on whether or not I just want to put my own loop in the straight side, or have them flip it. Any thoughts?

Honestly, he was doing me a favor running the cable while they had the front apart to connect the tow plates. They are great guys, and I have used them several times in the past. I know this whole brake light thing only happened because of the brake booster mishap, but will have them fix that part. As for the cable, if you think it matters, I will have it flipped. Thanks again!

Last edited by desant89; 04-15-2017 at 09:24 AM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 11:29 AM
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.... As for the cable, if you think it matters, I will have it flipped. Thanks again!
Sorry, can't be much help on that. I use a Brake Buddy, so not familiar with Ready Brake. Not qualified to comment on something outside the standard installation instructions.

On the Jeep flat-tow harness, here are a couple tips:

- Put a 12 volt switch in series with the fuse so you don't have to be pulling and replacing the fuse; which can be a pain.
- Run a switched 12 volt charge wire from your motorhome to the Cherokee's battery to keep it charged while your are towing.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, can't be much help on that. I use a Brake Buddy, so not familiar with Ready Brake. Not qualified to comment on something outside the standard installation instructions.

On the Jeep flat-tow harness, here are a couple tips:

- Put a 12 volt switch in series with the fuse so you don't have to be pulling and replacing the fuse; which can be a pain.
- Run a switched 12 volt charge wire from your motorhome to the Cherokee's battery to keep it charged while your are towing.
I am going to look into running the charge wire when I wire up my tail lights which will be as soon as this mess is over. If I do run a charge wire, wouldn't I not need a switch? I am guessing I would wire my switched power to that fused wire (remove it from it's current source), and then I would not have to do anything else other than flip the switch. Then when I start my RV, that wire sees power, and all should work. Is that correct?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 12:07 AM
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... If I do run a charge wire, wouldn't I not need a switch? I am guessing I would wire my switched power to that fused wire (remove it from it's current source), and then I would not have to do anything else other than flip the switch. Then when I start my RV, that wire sees power, and all should work. Is that correct?
That would work but the KL's battery wouldn't get charged while towing.

Edit to add:

You probably already know that as long as the 12V line to the KL's EPS is isolated from the KL's battery your idea will work. A relay can provide that isolation. For example, you could wire your motorhome's switched positive and negative charge lines directly to the KL's positive battery post and chassis respectively and put a relay, driven by the motorhome's positive wire, in series with the 10 amp harness fuse. That would serve as an automatic switch and provide the needed isolation.
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Last edited by Array; 04-17-2017 at 11:47 AM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so the wire with the fuse does not supply power to the power steering when the fuse is in? I was thinking that just putting my charge line from RV to that fused wire (remove current + feed for that wire) would make the Jeep use my RV power for the power steering which would cause me to not need to run to the battery. Sounds like I am totally wrong here, but I want to make sure I get this right when I do it. Thanks!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 01:16 AM
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Ok, so the wire with the fuse does not supply power to the power steering when the fuse is in? I was thinking that just putting my charge line from RV to that fused wire (remove current + feed for that wire) would make the Jeep use my RV power for the power steering which would cause me to not need to run to the battery. Sounds like I am totally wrong here, but I want to make sure I get this right when I do it. Thanks!
Oh okay, I see what you're thinking. Problem is the wire with the 10 amp fuse does not power the EPS. Instead it triggers a connection in the EPS Module that carries battery power over a separate heavy gauge cable to the EPS. If you notice the small size of the wires in the harness (as well as the 10 amp fuse), they are no way large enough to power the motor in the EPS.

The connection you are thinking of will activate a relay, but the EPS will be powered by the KL's battery and not your RV.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 08:58 AM
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I have been following all threads on this topic with great interest as I bought my 2016 TH for the purpose of towing behind my Jayco Greyhawk. 2000 miles on vacation in May without a hitch. One thing I am trying to figure out now is what type of switch and how to mount it for the 10 amp line from the battery. Any recommendations or pictures? Thanks.

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2016 Jayco Greyhawk
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