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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Update on my situation: I dropped the vehicle off at the local dealer's shop yesterday morning and the tech began testing in early afternoon. The battery reportedly was "severely discharged" and took an hour and 25 minutes to bring it back to full charge, at which time he tested it on the GR8-1220 diagnostic unit. It measured 525 CCA, slightly above the minimum at which FCA will make a warranty adjustment. A copy of the test report is attached -- see the "bad-good" indicator at the bottom.

When I got home last evening, I measured the battery voltage directly across the posts at regular intervals with my Fluke 117. At 6:30 PM it was 13.07 V; at 7:00 PM it was 12.98, at 8:00 PM it was 12.96 -- then 12 hours later, at 8 AM this morning, it had only dropped to 12.85 V. So I don't understand why it would have "severely discharged" sitting for a few hours in the dealer's lot.

I've installed a pair of ham transceivers, so there was some suspicion in the shop that my "aftermarket gear" is to blame for draining/damaging the battery. However, I've measured the current draw with the radios turned off and it's only 9 mA. At that rate, it would take 4-1/2 days to deplete the battery charge by only 1 amp-hour. I make it a habit to turn the radio off when I park, but even if I forget, they automatically shut off after 30 minutes of inactivity. (By the way, this standby current isn't much more than a lighter-plug cell phone charger, which measures about 5-6 mA.)

I noticed on the drive home that the battery voltage stayed right at 14.0 V except (of course) during the stop/start cycles. This is less than the usual 14.3-14.4 reading I've noted in the past couple of months. However, before last October's overheating incident, it was usually 14.6 V, so I still wonder if the factory had it set too high, causing the initial overheating.

Tomorrow afternoon, I leave for a 1200+ mile roundtrip to Ohio, so I asked the dealer's service consultant (who has seen my recent video) what to do if the battery overheats and begins venting again. Should I just keep driving? His advice was to find a dealer in that area as soon as possible, but based on my experience so far, I'm not sure that will help -- I've already taken it twice to dealers who are unable to make a warranty adjustment due to FCA policy.

If anyone from FCA has advice, please let me know. My dealer is concerned about the situation, but his hands are tied as long as the battery continues to pass the CCA test.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:23 AM
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Update on my situation: I dropped the vehicle off at the local dealer's shop yesterday morning and the tech began testing in early afternoon. The battery reportedly was "severely discharged" and took an hour and 25 minutes to bring it back to full charge, at which time he tested it on the GR8-1220 diagnostic unit. It measured 525 CCA, slightly above the minimum at which FCA will make a warranty adjustment. A copy of the test report is attached -- see the "bad-good" indicator at the bottom.

When I got home last evening, I measured the battery voltage directly across the posts at regular intervals with my Fluke 117. At 6:30 PM it was 13.07 V; at 7:00 PM it was 12.98, at 8:00 PM it was 12.96 -- then 12 hours later, at 8 AM this morning, it had only dropped to 12.85 V. So I don't understand why it would have "severely discharged" sitting for a few hours in the dealer's lot.

I've installed a pair of ham transceivers, so there was some suspicion in the shop that my "aftermarket gear" is to blame for draining/damaging the battery. However, I've measured the current draw with the radios turned off and it's only 9 mA. At that rate, it would take 4-1/2 days to deplete the battery charge by only 1 amp-hour. I make it a habit to turn the radio off when I park, but even if I forget, they automatically shut off after 30 minutes of inactivity. (By the way, this standby current isn't much more than a lighter-plug cell phone charger, which measures about 5-6 mA.)

I noticed on the drive home that the battery voltage stayed right at 14.0 V except (of course) during the stop/start cycles. This is less than the usual 14.3-14.4 reading I've noted in the past couple of months. However, before last October's overheating incident, it was usually 14.6 V, so I still wonder if the factory had it set too high, causing the initial overheating.

Tomorrow afternoon, I leave for a 1200+ mile roundtrip to Ohio, so I asked the dealer's service consultant (who has seen my recent video) what to do if the battery overheats and begins venting again. Should I just keep driving? His advice was to find a dealer in that area as soon as possible, but based on my experience so far, I'm not sure that will help -- I've already taken it twice to dealers who are unable to make a warranty adjustment due to FCA policy.

If anyone from FCA has advice, please let me know. My dealer is concerned about the situation, but his hands are tied as long as the battery continues to pass the CCA test.


That's disappointing that a battery of 700cca testing at 525 can be considered good.

Have you tried contacting @JeepCares?


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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 40_over_S9 View Post
Update on my situation: I dropped the vehicle off at the local dealer's shop yesterday morning and the tech began testing in early afternoon. The battery reportedly was "severely discharged" and took an hour and 25 minutes to bring it back to full charge, at which time he tested it on the GR8-1220 diagnostic unit. It measured 525 CCA, slightly above the minimum at which FCA will make a warranty adjustment. A copy of the test report is attached -- see the "bad-good" indicator at the bottom.

When I got home last evening, I measured the battery voltage directly across the posts at regular intervals with my Fluke 117. At 6:30 PM it was 13.07 V; at 7:00 PM it was 12.98, at 8:00 PM it was 12.96 -- then 12 hours later, at 8 AM this morning, it had only dropped to 12.85 V. So I don't understand why it would have "severely discharged" sitting for a few hours in the dealer's lot.

I've installed a pair of ham transceivers, so there was some suspicion in the shop that my "aftermarket gear" is to blame for draining/damaging the battery. However, I've measured the current draw with the radios turned off and it's only 9 mA. At that rate, it would take 4-1/2 days to deplete the battery charge by only 1 amp-hour. I make it a habit to turn the radio off when I park, but even if I forget, they automatically shut off after 30 minutes of inactivity. (By the way, this standby current isn't much more than a lighter-plug cell phone charger, which measures about 5-6 mA.)

I noticed on the drive home that the battery voltage stayed right at 14.0 V except (of course) during the stop/start cycles. This is less than the usual 14.3-14.4 reading I've noted in the past couple of months. However, before last October's overheating incident, it was usually 14.6 V, so I still wonder if the factory had it set too high, causing the initial overheating.

Tomorrow afternoon, I leave for a 1200+ mile roundtrip to Ohio, so I asked the dealer's service consultant (who has seen my recent video) what to do if the battery overheats and begins venting again. Should I just keep driving? His advice was to find a dealer in that area as soon as possible, but based on my experience so far, I'm not sure that will help -- I've already taken it twice to dealers who are unable to make a warranty adjustment due to FCA policy.

If anyone from FCA has advice, please let me know. My dealer is concerned about the situation, but his hands are tied as long as the battery continues to pass the CCA test.
Well that sucks. Big time.

I understand their position with the guidelines they have, and it sounds like they are really trying here.

To be honest, I don't think your battery will last very long, so it's just matter of time. Problem with these batteries is that they don't seem to give much warning before they go (quite a few reports on this here on the forum), so you will likely find a dead battery some day without any heads up from the sensors.

I'm pretty sure 14.6 - 14.7V is too high for the KL. Max number I've seen on mine - and seen here on the forum from others - is 14.4V.
My battery is very healthy (I think...) ; I do mostly small city / rural road driving, short stints, and the voltage reading I have all the time is 14.2V. I've seen 14V on the highway after driving for a while, but never below (or I just don't remember). And 14-14.2V is quite normal for our charging system. When it goes above 14.2V, ESS usually refuses to engage (battery charging message).
I've noticed over time that when voltage drops below 14V while charging - on a regular basis - it's a sign the battery is slowly failing. Anything above factory max charging voltage (I believe it's 14.4V in ours) is a sign of overcharging. Overcharging kills batteries.

I still think yours was overcharging for a while, until you got those flashes, and the battery took a hit.

Guess all you can do now is keep a close eye on things...
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 40_over_S9 View Post
.... I noticed on the drive home that the battery voltage stayed right at 14.0 V except (of course) during the stop/start cycles. This is less than the usual 14.3-14.4 reading I've noted in the past couple of months.
This doesn't solve the problem you're reporting, but the 14.0 V charge level on the way home might be expected since the dealer had to fully charge the battery before running the diagnostics. The voltage regulation system probably sensed the battery didn't need more of a charge. BTW, I have seen my battery voltage at 13.9 V on the DID while driving.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:04 PM
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This doesn't solve the problem you're reporting, but the 14.0 V charge level on the way home might be expected since the dealer had to fully charge the battery before running the diagnostics. The voltage regulation system probably sensed the battery didn't need more of a charge. BTW, I have seen my battery voltage at 13.9 V on the DID while driving.
Yeah I have the analog display (EVIC) and I believe we have a 0.2V visual increments on it, so when I see 14V it is not as accurate as it should be. If I had a multimeter hooked up I would likely see 13.9V as well.

What I meant about voltages below 14 : when you get them consistantly, even after a battery drain episode (like a very cold winter start), it's a sign of trouble because you should be at 14.4V max charging voltage. A battery that won't go up there is no longer accepting a charge as it should.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:32 PM
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Yeah I have the analog display (EVIC) and I believe we have a 0.2V visual increments on it, so when I see 14V it is not as accurate as it should be. If I had a multimeter hooked up I would likely see 13.9V as well.

What I meant about voltages below 14 : when you get them consistantly, even after a battery drain episode (like a very cold winter start), it's a sign of trouble because you should be at 14.4V max charging voltage. A battery that won't go up there is no longer accepting a charge as it should.
There's that DID vs EVIC again.

Agree it sounds like the battery should be moved to assisted living. What's troubling is the battery was "severely discharged" sitting for a few hours in the dealer's lot. That's drastic. My limited experience is when a battery gets flaky it stays flaky. I've never had a battery behave properly sometimes and not at others.

I would suspect the hams or their setup. Reading @40_over_S9 description in post #5, the power wiring sounds proper. A radio could be defective. I had a Sony radio killing my boat battery last year. But it would take a couple of days for it to drain the battery. Anyway, 40_over_S9 said the radio draw was measured and it was fine. A test would be to disconnect the hams at the battery for awhile to see if the battery holds up over a length of time.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:41 PM
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There's that DID vs EVIC again.

Agree it sounds like the battery should be moved to assisted living. What's troubling is the battery was "severely discharged" sitting for a few hours in the dealer's lot. That's drastic. My limited experience is when a battery gets flaky it stays flaky. I've never had a battery behave properly sometimes and not at others.

I would suspect the hams or their setup. Reading @40_over_S9 description in post #5, the power wiring sounds proper. A radio could be defective. I had a Sony radio killing my boat battery last year. But it would take a couple of days for it to drain the battery. Anyway, 40_over_S9 said the radio draw was measured and it was fine. A test would be to disconnect the hams at the battery for awhile to see if the battery holds up over a length of time.
EVIC vs DID : you and I seem to bring this up the most lol.

When I first read about this particular problem, I too thought it could be an added accessory draining the battery... and later we learned about the radios. But... they could be Ok. My biggest problem is the reported 14.6-14.7V, which are (to me) way too high. And then there were flashes... and voltage numbers came back to *normal* it seems.

AGMs can take more abuse than regular wet lead-acid batteries ; they behave more like deep cycle batteries with starting kick than starting-only automotive batteries, so it is possible it kinda survived some abuse there...

I also question those battery testing gizmos, and whether this particular one is capable of testing AGMs properly...

I'm guessing the present battery won't make it to next fall, but I'm not a gambling man
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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There's that DID vs EVIC again.

Agree it sounds like the battery should be moved to assisted living. What's troubling is the battery was "severely discharged" sitting for a few hours in the dealer's lot. That's drastic. My limited experience is when a battery gets flaky it stays flaky. I've never had a battery behave properly sometimes and not at others.

I would suspect the hams or their setup. Reading @40_over_S9 description in post #5, the power wiring sounds proper. A radio could be defective. I had a Sony radio killing my boat battery last year. But it would take a couple of days for it to drain the battery. Anyway, 40_over_S9 said the radio draw was measured and it was fine. A test would be to disconnect the hams at the battery for awhile to see if the battery holds up over a length of time.
My latest reading across the battery posts with radios connected but no significant load is 12.75, so it has dropped about 1/4 volt in the last 18 hours sitting in the driveway. When I unlock the doors (the headlights turn on for about 30 seconds as programmed) it quickly sags to 12.30V under that load.

I need to run out to the store in a few minutes and will see how the voltage reads today with engine running. After I return, I'll disconnect the ham rigs and then see how much it drops overnight. The dealer asked me to stop by tomorrow morning for another check, but not sure if he can do anything if it still passes a CCA test.

Then, it's on to Ohio and we'll hope for the best. But I plan to bring a couple of bottles of water mixed with baking soda to cool the battery off if it overheats again.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 02:54 PM
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Found an article on a boating forum with a quick and dirty explanation concerning AGM batteries venting :
http://www.boats.com/how-to/sealed-b.../#.WRtJ0NxFecx

So they can and do vent, but only in overcharging conditions when the pressure builds up inside.

When/if yours vents again, check voltage just to try and understand what is going on, because it should not vent like that...
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 03:58 PM
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Update on my situation: I dropped the vehicle off at the local dealer's shop yesterday morning and the tech began testing in early afternoon. The battery reportedly was "severely discharged" and took an hour and 25 minutes to bring it back to full charge, at which time he tested it on the GR8-1220 diagnostic unit. It measured 525 CCA, slightly above the minimum at which FCA will make a warranty adjustment. A copy of the test report is attached -- see the "bad-good" indicator at the bottom.

When I got home last evening, I measured the battery voltage directly across the posts at regular intervals with my Fluke 117. At 6:30 PM it was 13.07 V; at 7:00 PM it was 12.98, at 8:00 PM it was 12.96 -- then 12 hours later, at 8 AM this morning, it had only dropped to 12.85 V. So I don't understand why it would have "severely discharged" sitting for a few hours in the dealer's lot.

I've installed a pair of ham transceivers, so there was some suspicion in the shop that my "aftermarket gear" is to blame for draining/damaging the battery. However, I've measured the current draw with the radios turned off and it's only 9 mA. At that rate, it would take 4-1/2 days to deplete the battery charge by only 1 amp-hour. I make it a habit to turn the radio off when I park, but even if I forget, they automatically shut off after 30 minutes of inactivity. (By the way, this standby current isn't much more than a lighter-plug cell phone charger, which measures about 5-6 mA.)

I noticed on the drive home that the battery voltage stayed right at 14.0 V except (of course) during the stop/start cycles. This is less than the usual 14.3-14.4 reading I've noted in the past couple of months. However, before last October's overheating incident, it was usually 14.6 V, so I still wonder if the factory had it set too high, causing the initial overheating.

Tomorrow afternoon, I leave for a 1200+ mile roundtrip to Ohio, so I asked the dealer's service consultant (who has seen my recent video) what to do if the battery overheats and begins venting again. Should I just keep driving? His advice was to find a dealer in that area as soon as possible, but based on my experience so far, I'm not sure that will help -- I've already taken it twice to dealers who are unable to make a warranty adjustment due to FCA policy.

If anyone from FCA has advice, please let me know. My dealer is concerned about the situation, but his hands are tied as long as the battery continues to pass the CCA test.
Hey 40_over_S9,

Do you already have a case open with Customer Care? If you don't and want to send your VIN, we can get one open for you. I can also check in on those parameters for the battery load and see if there is any other information I can find out about that.

Kori
Jeep Social Care Specialist
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