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post #161 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 05:42 PM
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I had them installed by the local dealer; winter arrived again, I don't have the tools for the work in Michigan (where I'd had the supersliders shipped). The install is straightforward for the sliders. If you ordered them with the cosmetic covers be aware that there isn't actually instructions to install them. I had to point out to the dealer that they hadn't installed them (they were still laying on the shop floor), and how to do so.

Poor quality snaps while the snow was happening. The one in the shop shows the missed cover plates. I'll do beauty shots tomorrow, most likely.

There is a muscle memory issue getting in and out of Hawkeye now, but I'll get used to it!
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"Hawkeye" 2016 Granite Crystal Metallic TH, 3.2L, Cold Weather group, Tow group, Premium Leather group, 8.4AN HID Headlight upgrade Build date: 09/2015, BFG KO2 265/65/17, RRO Winch mount, RRO Super sliders.

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post #162 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 05:54 PM
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So what was the total the shop charged if I may ask?

2015 Trailhawk, Brilliant Black Crystal Pearlcoat, Hazzard Sky lift, BFG KO2 255/70/17, Auxbeam 20" LED Light Bar, MFC A Pillar LED Mounts, Auxbeam 18w 4" Spots, RRO Super Sliders, Custom antenna mounts, Lighted whip, Auxbeam 4" fog LEDs (left, right, rear). Switch-Pros SP-8100 switch controller.
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post #163 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 05:59 PM
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So what was the total the shop charged if I may ask?
$198, which is two hours labour + "shop parts". Which I read as some smuck had to go get the bits to drill out the holes and drill the pinch seam. It's actually less than I was quoted, and right on the money for the actual install time.

Bonus, they un-bent the driver's side pinch weld, which had a two-inch long section bent bouncing off a rock.
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"Hawkeye" 2016 Granite Crystal Metallic TH, 3.2L, Cold Weather group, Tow group, Premium Leather group, 8.4AN HID Headlight upgrade Build date: 09/2015, BFG KO2 265/65/17, RRO Winch mount, RRO Super sliders.

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post #164 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:49 PM
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... There is a muscle memory issue getting in and out of Hawkeye now, but I'll get used to it!
Ha! After 16 months, I'm still wiping off the stepper with my pants leg. Hip abductors are getting lop-sided. LOL
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post #165 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfrik View Post
$198, which is two hours labour + "shop parts". Which I read as some smuck had to go get the bits to drill out the holes and drill the pinch seam. It's actually less than I was quoted, and right on the money for the actual install time.

Bonus, they un-bent the driver's side pinch weld, which had a two-inch long section bent bouncing off a rock.
they would have had to in order to install the slider properly. i'm sure there were a few F-bombs thrown in your direction when the mechanic found that

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post #166 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:03 AM
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RRO Super Slider Installation Instruction Notes

Ship date to time of order was about 4 weeks, as quoted when I ordered.

Got mine on okay. The OE plastic rails are super easy to remove with the "No Step" method: remove screws/clips on either end as instructed, open one of the doors, gently step onto the plastic rail with both feet and full body weight using roof rail to balance, then hop downwards. *POP* Done. Clips go flying, but the whole rail comes off intact, and fast.

One side went ok smoother and lined up better than the other. The side that didn't go as well had a couple pinch seam bolts hit a skid plate on the other side, and I had to trim some unplanned body filler to make room for washers and nuts. The other side fit like a glove.

On the side that didn't go as well, 3 of 6 rubber nuts also didn't hold or got torqued out of whack after tightening. Even still, the rail mounted solid and isn't going anywhere. On both sides, the 2nd rubber nut from the back hit another steel layer inside the frame, I drilled 1/4 pilot holes on these and they went fast, even still the rubber nut didn't quite go in all the way.

I didn't have an issue breaking drill bits. Used a Dewalt cobalt 1/8th (for pilots) and 1/4, both bits lasted the whole project. I used lots of cutting oil. Holes go faster with lots of force and some extra speed. The holes on the jacking area of the pinch weld are the hardest by far, the middle ones are easy. For the big holes at 9/16, used a Milwaukee step bit that also lasted the whole project, went slow on those as instructed.

The powder coat seems very strong. I got the smooth cover plates and they look great too. Thought I'd have scratch them a fews times but it didn't go through the coating like I think paint would have.

When supporting the rails with Jack's to line up the holes, support through rails by the square tube frame, not the step, and not the shelf that goes to the pinch. A jack on each end works best. Don't mark hole until the top holes and the pinch weld holes are flush against the body.
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post #167 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 02:30 PM
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2014 TH born on 2/2014: 3.2L, C&C, Leather, 8.4A w/ Nav, Lifetime Powertrain
RRO Super Sliders, 245/70 General Grabber AT2
Alpine/JL 6-Speaker Solution | 3.2L Oil Filter Comparison
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post #168 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:05 PM
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looks great! i'm not a huge fan of what the super sliders do to the body lines of the car, so i went with the regular sliders. they're just wide enough that i'm going to put on a strip of grip tape, like what's on a skateboard, and that will help my kids getting in the back of the car (and on the trails, of course )

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post #169 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:21 PM
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On the side that didn't go as well, 3 of 6 rubber nuts also didn't hold or got torqued out of whack after tightening. Even still, the rail mounted solid and isn't going anywhere. On both sides, the 2nd rubber nut from the back hit another steel layer inside the frame, I drilled 1/4 pilot holes on these and they went fast, even still the rubber nut didn't quite go in all the way.

I had a similar experience on my driver's side. I have 2 rubber well nuts that either had free spinning bolts or wouldn't seat flush to the body. It wasn't until after completely bolting on the rails along the pinch seam that I discovered the issue with the well nuts. I figure they're more for downward force distribution (standing on the rail) than upward force (which would be distributed along the pinch seam). Eventually I'll pull the rails off and replace the well nuts but I'm not in too much of a hurry given the amount of hassle that is. Unless of course I'm dead wrong in my reasoning in which case I'd do it this weekend.



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post #170 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 12:58 AM
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I had a similar experience on my driver's side. I have 2 rubber well nuts that either had free spinning bolts or wouldn't seat flush to the body. It wasn't until after completely bolting on the rails along the pinch seam that I discovered the issue with the well nuts. I figure they're more for downward force distribution (standing on the rail) than upward force (which would be distributed along the pinch seam). Eventually I'll pull the rails off and replace the well nuts but I'm not in too much of a hurry given the amount of hassle that is. Unless of course I'm dead wrong in my reasoning in which case I'd do it this weekend.



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Yeah I'm going to leave mine as-is for now. The rail isn't going anywhere with all of those pinch seam bolts in solid. It seems like I would have to re drill holes to get it to line up flush, and/or drill to the next size up to redo the rubber well nuts, otherwise I'm not sure how to fix it other than leaving it.

2014 TH born on 2/2014: 3.2L, C&C, Leather, 8.4A w/ Nav, Lifetime Powertrain
RRO Super Sliders, 245/70 General Grabber AT2
Alpine/JL 6-Speaker Solution | 3.2L Oil Filter Comparison
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