Lifted TH (Valpacer "Aussie" lift) - Page 11 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #101 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 12:41 PM
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I don't think there is a failure rate. I doubt anyone has had failure with such a mild spacer. Yes if it was a 1" spacer on one side of the spring where the suspension doesn't settle into its proper place and a bump or other off-road obstacle made it pop out under tension. But these little spacers still let the suspension sir in its proper place where it will have a very hard time coming out. Worst case scenario the spacer disintegrates and you are left with a stock suspension. The rear will fit a bigger tire than the front so you would be fine.

My tires should be here Saturday. 255 70 17. Lighting the TH tomorrow night or Saturday morning. I'll take a ton of good pictures and measurements before and after.

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post #102 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 12:46 PM
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BTW - the old style nitto Terra grappler in 255 70 17 is only $136 each shipped to your local tire shop. Yes I would like the new style but for this price I'll take them. I've run them on several vehicles and they are great for people that drive as much as I do.

http://www.tirebuyer.com/tires/nitto...MWEaAsUY8P8HAQ



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post #103 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 02:45 PM
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I read up on this some more, yeah, doesn't look like there's a need to worry about aluminum.
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post #104 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 02:53 PM
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So, I have to ask after reading the instructions and comments: Sorry in advance to all the smart people who already understand all of this.

For the front end, you're basically pulling a bolt, enlarging a different whole and putting the bolt back in the new hole? Is it just that?

I understand (fortunately enough) the rear work. I'm just not grasping the front and the pictures don't paint enough information for my thin brain.

Again, I'm sorry to anyone that already knows the answer to my dumb question. Thanks in advance for your response and understanding.
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post #105 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:28 PM
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I love the idea of the lift and larger tires, however there does not appear to be an available aftermarket tuner/re-programmer available for this vehicle yet to compensate for the larger tire size. Adding a larger tire changes the dynamics for the on-board computer which controls just about everything on this vehicle. The network uses wheel speed to calculate everything from shift points to abs application and a ton of other stuff. Bigger tires means fewer revolutions of the tire for the same mph...

Yours may be faster, but mine can go Anywhere!
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post #106 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpoutlaw View Post
So, I have to ask after reading the instructions and comments: Sorry in advance to all the smart people who already understand all of this.

For the front end, you're basically pulling a bolt, enlarging a different whole and putting the bolt back in the new hole? Is it just that?

I understand (fortunately enough) of the rear work. I'm just not grasping the front and the pictures don't paint enough information for my thing brain.

Again, I sorry to anyone that already knows the answer to my dumb question. Thanks in advance for your response and understanding.
That's pretty much it. The strut is held by clamping force, so you loosen the bolt, slide the strut up, drill a slightly larger hole in the tab, put the bolt back in and tighten. Someone already mentioned but if you look in the install picture that has the strut lifted up already, you can see the smaller hole that you have to drill out.

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post #107 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:57 PM
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Yes to the issue with bigger tyre. I have gone with the 245/70's which are just over 3% larger than stock. At 100kmh measured by gps my speedo reams mostly 100, flicking ocassionally to 101 so I am not concerned at all in that respect.
@jpoutlaw yes you are spot on. The lower end of the strut is simply clamped in the top of the knuckle. Undo the clamping bolt, slide the strut up in the 'clamp' til the next strut locating hole is visible though the clamping bolt hole and drill out that strut locating hole a little (as its a few mm smaller than the original) then replace the bolt. This lowers the knuckle a little pushing the wheel further down. Stick your head underneath and have a stare at it for a few minutes and it should all make sense! If not there will be videos and pics coming soon I would imagine

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post #108 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 06:01 PM
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How much adjustment was need on the new alignment?

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post #109 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 06:10 PM
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#David_Baker

Thank you for the response and thank you for not flaming me. I ordered the spacers earlier today and will crawl under it this evening to check things out.

I truly appreciate your input and effort in helping all of us out.
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All the candy

Draw-Tite Roof Rack
Whispbar S53 cross bars
Aussie Lift
RRO Steprails
Lund Wind Deflectors

Towing behind a Pace Arrow motorhome with
Blue Ox towing equipment | BrakeBuddy brake system

Flat Tow TSB (completed)


Hawk Build by JP

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post #110 of 1066 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 06:26 PM
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One other question on the front strut. Re: the length of strut 'below' the clamping point on original configuration and the now shorter 'leg' after the procedure. Is there any thought that this might be structurally weaker long term - I've followed thread and know some folks are roading hard with this lift etc. so it seems to be holding up. But, I know that sometime that 'extra;' length is there for leverage/support for longer term durability; and am curious if anyone else has any thoughts on the design aspect from that direction or if Valpacer or original planner looked at and accounted for that aspect. Like others, this is sounding like one I might be able to do / get away with; but I want to be really sure before messing with mah baby!

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