Brake Bleeding Question - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Bleeding Question

Hello,

Since I do not have a helper for the project, I picked up a Mityvac MV8000. I have new DOT 3 fluid for the project as well. My question is, does anyone know if I have to do something special with the ABS unit? I have been searching Google and had zero luck. I know to pump the brakes until the pedal feels really firm to depressurize the ABS unit. Is there anything I am missing?

Thanks!

2015 Trailhawk - Eco Green, 3.2L, Nav, Tow, Cold Weather. MODS: Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain ProGrades 245/70R17; WeatherTech mats, vent shades; Magnaflow exhaust. Rigid SR 20" bar and Rock Lights. JW Speaker fog lights. Blue Ridge Overland Gear panels and bags. Pelican tool box loaded! Bubba Rope and Gators too. Much more....

Trailer: Custom built Montrose aluminum 4.5'Wx6'Lx3'H off-road utility with 3,500 lb Dexter torsion axle. Known as the Zombie Escape Trailer.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 06:52 PM
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You will probably need a Witech to bleed the ABS unit?
If you do not have air in the brake lines then this is what I do.
Suck the brake fluid out of the resevoir with a baster and needle.
Then you can suck the fluid out of both chambers.
Add clean fluid. You are done.
Let the brake system pump the fluid through the system.
When the fluid in the resevoir looks darker than new fluid then do this again.
Usually I do this about every 6 months. Keeps the fluid fairly clean.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks @sanghill. I was reading more and it looks like if I do it the conventional way, ensuring no air gets into the system, I am okay. Then I can take it out for a bit and ensure the ABS has to kick in. For me, I can go up the road, use 4LO and hill descent control, to allow the ABS unit to cycle. Then do a second bleed job. That SHOULD get all the old fluid out and put new fluid in.

I have used the method you described before on some pickup trucks. It is better than nothing for sure! But I want to do this one all the way.

2015 Trailhawk - Eco Green, 3.2L, Nav, Tow, Cold Weather. MODS: Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain ProGrades 245/70R17; WeatherTech mats, vent shades; Magnaflow exhaust. Rigid SR 20" bar and Rock Lights. JW Speaker fog lights. Blue Ridge Overland Gear panels and bags. Pelican tool box loaded! Bubba Rope and Gators too. Much more....

Trailer: Custom built Montrose aluminum 4.5'Wx6'Lx3'H off-road utility with 3,500 lb Dexter torsion axle. Known as the Zombie Escape Trailer.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Here are pictures of my fluid.
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2015 Trailhawk - Eco Green, 3.2L, Nav, Tow, Cold Weather. MODS: Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain ProGrades 245/70R17; WeatherTech mats, vent shades; Magnaflow exhaust. Rigid SR 20" bar and Rock Lights. JW Speaker fog lights. Blue Ridge Overland Gear panels and bags. Pelican tool box loaded! Bubba Rope and Gators too. Much more....

Trailer: Custom built Montrose aluminum 4.5'Wx6'Lx3'H off-road utility with 3,500 lb Dexter torsion axle. Known as the Zombie Escape Trailer.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 04:04 PM
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Yeah, so I was cleaning under the hood today after I changed the oil and decided to check the brake fluid level. That's when I noticed that it's really dark! Pretty much grey looking. Is that normal for out-of-the-factory brake fluid?? I've never seen it that color. I've got about 38,500 miles on her. Needless to say, I'm going to be changing it this weekend.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 04:11 PM
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If you watch the level of the reservoir and keep it above the min line you can bleed without running the ABS/ESC. This said, you would have a small amount of old fluid in that unit until it is activated. For the best bleed it is best to have the unit run which means being controlled by equipment (that to the best of my knowledge) only dealers have.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 04:15 PM
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Also, many will say that the brake fluid should last the life of the vehicle. I used to agree with this. Then, years ago I had a tow rig that wouldn't stop. I tried everything to improve this, performance pads and rotors, adjusted everything... still it never really improved. Then I had an older guy that I used to hang with in my drag racing days tell me to change the brake fluid. I thought he was full of it, but did it anyway (what did I have to lose?) .... I couldn't believe how much better the braking was! This truck only had 40k miles on it at this time.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 10:05 AM
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From spending part of my time in the land of road racing... thank you for recognizing that brake fluid is not forever. I change annually on a track car, 3 - 4 years with good fluid on other cars.

I honestly wouldn't sweat the little bit of fluid that remains in the ABS unit, but if you really want do what you mentioned and activate ABS on a hill or gravel road or something and bleed again. If the Mityvac seems slow or otherwise annoying, consider getting a power bleeder. It puts pressurized fluid (15ish PSI) into the reservoir and out the bleeders, instead of sucking out through them. Pulling from the bleeders tends to suck air in around the threads too, making the process very slow. I usually try to empty the reservoir of old fluid and refill with fresh before starting. Just watch the reservoir. I've seen some actually rise up off the master cylinder. Never had one pop off, but if it does move up I put a zip tie or two around it before pressurizing.

Also I'm kinda OCD and would end up pushing 2 quarts of fluid through with the "bleed, run ABS, bleed again" method to make sure it's very well flushed. But hey it's pretty cheap for something you only do every few years.
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Last edited by iwfur25; 05-09-2017 at 10:14 AM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudman1 View Post
Hello,

Since I do not have a helper for the project, I picked up a Mityvac MV8000. I have new DOT 3 fluid for the project as well. My question is, does anyone know if I have to do something special with the ABS unit? I have been searching Google and had zero luck. I know to pump the brakes until the pedal feels really firm to depressurize the ABS unit. Is there anything I am missing?

Thanks!
I really wouldn't worry about the little bit of fluid left in the ABS valve block. Also, so you know, the ABS system does not store any pressure. Pumping the brake pedal with the engine off just depletes the brake booster reserve.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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I am going to get mine done this summer I guess. $ dried up a bit.

2015 Trailhawk - Eco Green, 3.2L, Nav, Tow, Cold Weather. MODS: Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain ProGrades 245/70R17; WeatherTech mats, vent shades; Magnaflow exhaust. Rigid SR 20" bar and Rock Lights. JW Speaker fog lights. Blue Ridge Overland Gear panels and bags. Pelican tool box loaded! Bubba Rope and Gators too. Much more....

Trailer: Custom built Montrose aluminum 4.5'Wx6'Lx3'H off-road utility with 3,500 lb Dexter torsion axle. Known as the Zombie Escape Trailer.
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