I always used to position the OEM tool so it was slightly angled upwards then would stand on the bar and use my body weight to loosen the lug nuts, if I couldn't do it by hand. I've had to change plenty of tires, and found this was a quick and effective way to handle seized or stuck nuts.
As a side note, my Trailhawk came with a package of 4 extra lug bolts in the glove box. I thought this was standard for everyone, but I'm guessing not judging by the previous posts.
Standing on those tools does add a lot or power (torque) when you need it, but it's a balancing act and you also have to make sure the tool isn't crooked on the nut/bolt... and of course the heavier you are, the less acrobatics are required
Having a 24" breaker bar gives you that extra torque with much less weight/force needed at the handle, so a much *easier* way to get those stuck/seized bolts going.
BTW : those 4 extra bolts you have are there because your dealer installed 4 lock bolts on your TH, and those 4 bolts were taken out for that purpose
grabbed the extra 4 new bolts, torque wrench & 6 point 19mm deep socket as backup. when I tried the socket on the new bolts, they were fine. but on 2 of the 5 wheel bolts felt less than fine. I wonder if, I, myself, damaged 2 of them just by changing the flat with the OEM tool?!? (either loosening or tightening the bolts)
I guess when I get the replacement tire mounted, I'll ask the tire shop to replace the 2 funky bolts with new. then I'll be down to only 2 extra OEM bolts
it is ridiculous that these bolt heads are so fragile. maybe the OEM tool should be an actual torque wrench?
I def. recommend a deep socket to help clear the wheel & tire w the handle
It is difficult to apply torque perfectly with those OEM tools... so damaging a capped bolt is not that difficult if the tool's head is just a hair off axis... so yes it's possible.
Another tip : for sockets that you use on lug bolts or nuts, it's a good idea to wrap some plastic or nylon tape on at least the bottom 3", to prevent wheel damage when you accidentally bang them against the wheel, or even inside the lug hole. Electrical tape is good, so is duct tape, but of course Gorilla tape is more robust so will last longer. I've also use good ol' white bandage tape (cloth) and hockey tape would work also. Any tape that prevents metal on metal banging. I make sure to have tape down at the very bottom of the socket and I even allow an extra 1/16" beyond the socket, just to be sure I don't hit the bottom of lug holes with metal. They also sell impact-ready sockets for wheels, which have an outer nylon sleeve, perfect for this purpose.
Last tip : if you already have an SAE socket kit, then 3/4" is very-very close to 19mm and will do the job. 3/4" is actually 19.05mm (0.05mm is 0.002").