how the cv joint resist after a while with a suspension lift? - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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how the cv joint resist after a while with a suspension lift?

how the cv joint resist after a while with a suspension lift, does it do well or do they have a shorter life, does anybody run a lift for more than 25000 miles and how your cv is going???
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 12:10 AM
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Aftermarket CV Joints

I was going to start a new thread, but found this by Master Yoda and thought my post would be a good response.

I recently busted my front passenger CV joint at 37303 miles, 13.5K on the Aussie plus lift. I don't believe it had anything to do with the lift. It was probably more related to the maneuver at the time and the strength of the OEM joint. While I was looking into warranty options, I also considered aftermarket options. My JK buddy and @edge600 turned me onto RCV Performance Products. This is the response I got:

We might have done an upgraded cage/race and connecting shafts but not the full plug & play system. I have had some recent inquires about this application though so we might be able to accommodate you guys with KL's since the demand seems like its growing. If we have (8) full kits lined up I can get this on my engineering drawing board and at the moment your the 4th guy I've spoken to on this so if you come across anymore interested parties on forums or wherever we could get this into production.

Best Regards,

RCV Performance Customer Support

RCV Performance Products
611 Beacon Street
Loves Park, IL 61111
Ph: 815.877.7473 | Fx: 815.877.1218


Shameless plug for Heritage Auto in Brigham City, UT .... totally awesome!! I phoned them from southern UT to tell them I was bringing the Snowhawk in. They pre-ordered the axle and had it waiting when I showed up. It was installed within a half day under warranty. Again, totally awesome!

OK, back to RCV .... If you are interested in the "Strongest Axles on the Planet!" then email Jordan at the above address and urge them to get designing some axles for the KL. Only need 4 more KL off-roaders.

Happy trails,
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 07:54 AM
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I would rather replace stock axles and carry spares than give RCV a dime....

I drank their cool-aid once and paid the ridiculous price for front axle shafts. Since they were warranted and advertised as "the last set of axles you will ever buy" I thought I was good. Then, I flat spotting the balls in the CVs... This wasn't warranted because it is a wear item (I had 5k miles on them). I also twisting the spines to the point they were not usable, but because they had not broke (total failure) they were not covered either. So essentially, I spend money (enough for two sets of standard shafts) and now (after only 5k miles) had a usable outer and fancy boot. As mentioned, none of this was warrant-able. So my choices were to spend almost the cost of another set of shafts on replacement parts, or ditch them. Even the RCV guy I worked with thought it was crap, but "policy is policy".

I did buy the replacement parts, to rebuild and sell the shafts and recoup some of my money. I then purchased a regular set of u-joint shafts and ran/wheeled them for 20k miles without a single issue up until we sold the Jeep. I did make a set of foot pegs out of the twisted spines though so that is cool (I guess).

This was all on our JK, but I take someones (or a companies) word pretty seriously. Their website had "No questions asked lifetime warranty" in several places. Yet, when I needed it there were questions, and there was not a warranty. I do believe my situation was odd (failure wise) and that RCV Performace does have SOME nice products. But they have some poor ethics that will prevent me from ever giving them another dime.

To the OP. 10k miles post lift and no issues.


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 01:50 PM
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I've run my MFC lift for about 27,000 miles with zero issues.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 11:41 PM
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Thick black grease flung in the front wheelwell of your independent front suspension (IFS) 4x4 is a good indicator that one of the CV axle boots is torn. Inspect the boots regularly for cracks and tears. Replace the CV or the entire halfshaft if the joints become contaminated with dirt. Most auto parts stores offer complete new or remanufactured halfshafts at a reasonable price so it’s usually not worth the time and effort to rebuild your halfshaft. Only MOPAR has KL axles. RCV offers complete heavy-duty halfshafts for some popular IFS 4x4 application and is working on a KL version.

Axle Tips Tricks Ifs Cv Broken Trail

If you destroy an IFS CV or other unit bearing-style front axleshaft out on the trail, do NOT be too quick to pull the whole axleshaft and limp out. Most front unit wheel bearing assemblies require the stub shaft to be installed and torqued to spec. Disassemble the halfshaft or axleshaft and reinstall the stub in the bearing assembly prior to limping home.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by master yoda View Post
how the cv joint resist after a while with a suspension lift, does it do well or do they have a shorter life, does anybody run a lift for more than 25000 miles and how your cv is going???

18,000 miles one inch lift no problems



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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 09:57 PM
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25k miles total lifted. 15k with 1.25", 10k with 1.5". No issues with CVs yet

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 05:41 PM
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After my CV joint failed, the dealer replaced it under warranty. However, when I got the TH back, the steering wheel was off center. Why is my steering wheel off-center when the wheels are steered straight?

An off-center steering wheel can occur for a variety of reasons and is often simply the result of neglecting to center the steering wheel before adjusting toe.

Before determining toe angle and/or performing adjustments, it's a good idea to start the engine and turn the steering wheel side to side to relieve pressure in the system. Then, turn the wheels straight and shut off the engine. You should also roll the vehicle back and forth a few times between measurements.

Get someone to hold the other end of the measuring tape and measure the leading toe distance. This is the distance between the leading edges of the front tires. You'll compare the results to the distance between the trailing edges of the tires directly opposite from where you took the first measurement.

The higher number will indicate toe direction: higher number in leading edge indicates toe out; higher number at trailing edge displays toe in. Larger-than-stock tires require more positive toe for best results.

Once the necessary measurements are performed to determine what the current toe setting is, you can loosen the bolts on the tie-rod adjuster sleeve so that the tie-rod ends can be rotated. Don't forgot to tighten the adjusters when you're done as damage or injury could result.

The tie-rod ends thread into the tie rod. The ends can be threaded in or out of the tie rod to make the assembly longer or shorter. Longer creates more toe out; shorter toe in. Don't make huge adjustments all at once. It's best to adjust and measure a few times to achieve appropriate setting.

I'm my case, I took the vehicle back to the dealer and requested an alignment, which should have been done anytime drive train, steering, or suspension components are replaced or adjusted. Every parameter was out of tolerance, so it was a wise choice.

Happy trails,
unofficial Jeep Field Test Engineer
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 05:52 PM
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Improper toe angle isn't the only reason a steering wheel won't center. This phenomenon can also be caused by the steering linkage not being centered when toe was adjusted in the first place. This can be corrected by recentering the steering wheel and readjusting toe to proper specs. A bent steering arm or linkage component can also cause the steering wheel to be off-center. This also occurs due to loose steering arm bolts. An off-center steering wheel contributes to tire wear because as the wheels are turned off dead center they turn toe out and increase tire scrubbing.

Sometimes an off-center steering wheel is accompanied by a wheel pull to one direction or the other and could be the result of a damaged component somewhere in the vehicle - a bent axle housing could be throwing off the rear toe setting (rear toe setting is often overlooked). A bent frame or overly worn suspension bushings can also be the cause. If your wheel is off-center and also pulling, it can be as simple as incorrect tire pressure from side to side. Memory steer is another effect that is usually associated with an off-center steering wheel. This is when the steering wheel returns to an off-center position and can result in steering pull or drift after completing a turn. This can be caused by binding in the steering linkage as well as power steering system issues such as leaks or improper hydraulic pressure. Steering linkage bind occurs when proper geometry is not maintained in lifted vehicles.

Many 4x4s don't have factory provisions for adjusting caster and camber and rear toe and camber, but the front toe setting is easily adjusted. Toe is controlled by the steering linkage. By loosening the adjusters on the tie rod and shortening or lengthening the tie rod by turning the ends, toe angle can be adjusted. This should not be a substitute for regular professional wheel alignment jobs and is simply a tip that can be used to put off frequent trips to the alignment shop due to regular trips to the trail.

Happy trails
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 06:52 PM
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37,000km on Aussie lift with 245/70 Duratracs and no (suspension or driveline) issues.

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