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Info on do it yourself lift

21K views 69 replies 16 participants last post by  edge600 
#1 ·
So, I have the budget boost from hazard. Love it. Got the aluminum version.
But came across a thread where someone did their own 1/2 of the mfc lift kit ( leveled out the front) with just some collar clamps they bought online. ( this thread seams to have died an op no longer post updates)

I'm hoping to try and get more info on using the collar clamps in an attempt to lift a little more, like 1/4".
 
#2 ·
Got to be honest... I dont think you don't need the clamps for that. There is a lot of debate as to whether they actually do anything anyways.

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#3 ·
What you don't say is that you can duplicate it without the front spacers...

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#5 ·
Do it yourself or not, I have found the MFC's aluminum lift version to function very well on the many Badge of Honor trails I have done. Its held up great, and done its job. It also held up very well this Utah winter against corrosion with lots of road salt splashed on it.
 
#31 ·
FWIW, I've done a few BoH trails with my Hazzard lift and it worked just fine. Have about 7k on mine so far with zero issues and zero movement of the strut through all of the rough driving. Also been through the MN winter (and potholes lol) with zero issues. I'll check it out again after it gets warm out.

Just wanted to throw it out there that both lifts perform adequately under stress.
 
#8 ·
Plus upward slip should be the larger worry and the "front spacer" doesn't do anything to prevent that...

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#19 ·
my budget lift did not affect camber and slightly just toed in ..in spec in a matter if minutes..,,
 
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#20 ·
It would've had to alter the camber. However, it is possible that it remained within spec. Our left (driver) side was fine. Only the passenger side was out.

Very few vehicles with struts have camber adjustments. With a typical bolt in style strut, it is common to open or slot the mounting holes. To allow for inward/outward movement which would allow correction. The KL has a special bearing type upper mount that makes this approach impossible. Another common fix is to make different length or adjustable lower arms. This too is tricky with the KL. For one; it is cast aluminium, but the larger issue is the type of joint used at the frame side connections.

Without a way to move the upper strut mount or a way to change the lower arm length, lifting the KL any amount WILL create more positive camber than it had prior to a lift. In many cases it stays in spec, but not all.
 

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#25 ·
good luck guys im happy with the lift i have ...
 
#29 · (Edited)
Info on Do it yourself lift

Increased the front height myself.
Went and bought a 98 cent 2" pvc coupling, cut it in half, then cut it down to about 25mm ( mm to inches is .98 inches, so I just did 1", to use as my guide spacer.
Used a 7/16 drill bit to drill out a new hole and re installed the aftermarket bolt.
Now it's almost leveled out but still slight rake.
 

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#36 ·
Will it work on a stock kl? Just curious...

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#37 ·
If it works with the MFC lift then it will work with a stock KL since they both have all stock components, just a different strut mount height in the knuckle for the MFC or Aussie lifted version.

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#38 ·
That's what I was getting at... I kindof wanted to hear him say it lol

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#45 ·
#46 · (Edited)

Wow. I for one will never be doing business with this person. And with this kind of attitude towards customers, I hope no one else does. Crazy he was getting all this free advertising, even pimping his cool new "camber plates" with no problems.
What's funny is I was inquiring about basically lifting the front higher. Thought clamps were the only option.
Ended up not even using clamps! And all this is noted in this thread!
 
#48 · (Edited)
I can't say much on the topic, but that user is no longer a member here.

Additionally, a patent, and a copyright, are two different things. The terms aren't interchangeable, as they are in the image you posted.

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#53 ·
Do you have the part numbers for the shocks that'll fit off the shelf? I check every few months and haven't found anything since I carry so much weight.


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#57 ·
@edge600, I haven't run any numbers or even looked, but the shock length really surprises me. I suppose the big difference is the up travel you will not be using in the shock since the factory one has the extension bit versus usable travel to make up the length.

I wonder how this works with the valving? The internal bypasses and pressure will rely on you getting to an area of the shock that you will never get to.

Below is a picture of the 6" fox shocks at full droop on a JK... These are 37s
 

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#60 ·
You are exactly right, full extension length is very similar but compressed length is much shorter for the kings and fox. And also the only reason they will bolt up and the bilstiens won't is because of the inverted design. The funny part about the picture you attached is that I was swapping bilstiens for fox on a 2015 JKU with a six inch lift and 37's when the lightbulb went on. I talked with a suspension guru I know about where the shaft will be in its travel and was told it shouldn't be a problem due to the lighter rear weight ok the TH over the front weight of the JK. Only one way to find out! And besides, I can have the kings revalved to my liking.
 
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