Info on Do it yourself version of MFC lift. - Page 2 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Xinarin13 View Post
Plus upward slip should be the larger worry and the collar doesn't do anything to prevent that...

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The bolt would though right?

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post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 03:22 PM
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Plus upward slip should be the larger worry and the collar doesn't do anything to prevent that...

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amen to that...i have budget lift and no problems...plenty of clearance for what i do..im at 10 inches..from s pipe to ground..my lift cost me 55 dollars and 2 hours of my time...

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post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
The bolt would though right?
The bolt already does... the misconception (assuming we are talking about the strut clamp bolt) is that the bolt hole is important... when in reality, it is only for positioning. When you tighten the bolt it causes the "tube", "collar", whatever you want to call it... to squeeze the strut and prevent movement, so yes the bolt prevents slippage, but it does that regardless. Rip the guide plate (the part you drill out) off and evrything still holds even though it isn't in the "hole".

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post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Xinarin13 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
The bolt would though right?
The bolt already does... the misconception (assuming we are talking about the strut clamp bolt) is that the bolt hole is important... when in reality, it is only for positioning. When you tighten the bolt it causes the "tube", "collar", whatever you want to call it... to squeeze the strut and prevent movement, so yes the bolt prevents slippage, but it does that regardless. Rip the guide plate (the part you drill out) off and evrything still holds even though it isn't in the "hole".

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Good to know. Thanks.
Regarding what mfc said. I went with the ad1 lift, and the back is high enough for me, I just still want a little less rake.
If I had went with either version larger lift, the rake would be too much for my taste.
Blame it on jeeps design of the front. Bunch of bologna if you ask me.
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post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 10:14 AM
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Good to know. Thanks.
Regarding what mfc said. I went with the ad1 lift, and the back is high enough for me, I just still want a little less rake.
If I had went with either version larger lift, the rake would be too much for my taste.
Blame it on jeeps design of the front. Bunch of bologna if you ask me.
It's this way for loading. Especially if you have the tow package. Put a bunch of gear in the back or a trailer and it sits level. If you take the rake out for everyday driving your nose will be high when you load the Jeep.

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post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
It's this way for loading. Especially if you have the tow package. Put a bunch of gear in the back or a trailer and it sits level. If you take the rake out for everyday driving your nose will be high when you load the Jeep.
This may be so, but I agree with desert rider, the front end is too low. It doesn't even clear the average concrete parking lot wheel stop. I removed the air dams in front of the wheels because they where all scraped to heck every time I parked the car.

Regarding the pros and cons of the budget lift over the MFC lift. The biggest benefit of the budget lift, is you don't have to remove the front strut from the collar to get the increased height. That and its a heck of a lot cheaper. As for the rears, if you get the budget lift, you can always drill a hole and cut a thread for a set screw, if you get the aluminum version. yes MFC lift is higher. For everyone who just wants an extra inch ( and who doesn't, eh?) the budget boost is the way to go. Easier, cheaper and time tested. Also easier to get non ad2 suspension alignment back in spec, from what I've read.
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post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 12:14 PM
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My biggest issue with the MFC lift is the alignment. Our TH couldn't be put back into spec with the ~1" budget boost. It would be worse with more lift.

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post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
My biggest issue with the MFC lift is the alignment. Our TH couldn't be put back into spec with the ~1" budget boost. It would be worse with more lift.
You should probably get that re-aligned somewhere else.

I have @Hazardsky's lift and the shop got me back into alignment without issues.
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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 12:41 PM
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You should probably get that re-aligned somewhere else.

I have @Hazardsky's lift and the shop got me back into alignment without issues.
I did the alignment myself... It is camber that is effected by the lift and there is no adjustment for it on the front. Not every KL is the same, It just so happens ours was already on the upper end of the spec prior to the lift.

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post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JKL View Post
This may be so, but I agree with desert rider, the front end is too low. It doesn't even clear the average concrete parking lot wheel stop. I removed the air dams in front of the wheels because they where all scraped to heck every time I parked the car.



Regarding the pros and cons of the budget lift over the MFC lift. The biggest benefit of the budget lift, is you don't have to remove the front strut from the collar to get the increased height. That and its a heck of a lot cheaper. As for the rears, if you get the budget lift, you can always drill a hole and cut a thread for a set screw, if you get the aluminum version. yes MFC lift is higher. For everyone who just wants an extra inch ( and who doesn't, eh?) the budget boost is the way to go. Easier, cheaper and time tested. Also easier to get non ad2 suspension alignment back in spec, from what I've read.


FYI the revised MFC lift now does not require the removal of the strut from the knuckle. We designed a two piece extension over the original 1 piece.


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