Will wheel spacers cause more wear on tires and suspension? - Page 2 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
User Tag List

 5Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 08:15 PM
Hardcore Member
 
Desoto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 599
Those retaining bolts are used for the assembly line. As far as wheel spacers, I think they will show some increased Ball Joint wear over time. Too many have failed with no mods at all.
Desoto is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 08:24 PM
Forum Elder
 
Mark_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 4,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desoto View Post
Those retaining bolts are used for the assembly line. As far as wheel spacers, I think they will show some increased Ball Joint wear over time. Too many have failed with no mods at all.
I need to follow-up on that...

I've got 25K miles on the KL and will need to have the second lower ball joint replaced (had the first one done at 20K). And this *damage* only from bad streets, no off-roading or any other abuse. So yeah I can confirm the lower ball joints are weak...

Spacers/adapters add stress to the suspension and steering components connected to the hub, and some vehicules will handle this stress better than others...

My avatar is the Elder Predator (goes well with my forum status and overall temper )
2015 North (Canada) - V6 - AD1
Cold, Tow, 8.4A, 9 speakers with sub
Mark_ is offline  
post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 08:25 PM
Hardcore Member
 
IRSmart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 868
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
^^ ME... ME-ME !!!...

Ok I wanna start something now...

About that rotor retaining bolt... Since this a spacer/adapter topic, I have to ask... does one really need that bolt ?

The adapter will keep the rotor nice and snug on the hub even when you remove a wheel, because the adapter does a much better job than any retainer bolt... I think...

Ok I'm gone >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
right, but here's the issue. even with the removal of that bolt, there is still a threaded hole that is too small to let the lug bolt through.

2015 Latitude V6 AD-II
Mods: List was getting too long for my sig, check out my garage for a full list of mods

Waiting for install: MFC switch plate w/OTRATTW custom switches

Official test car for the SmartStopStart module program
IRSmart is offline  
 
post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 08:33 PM
Forum Elder
 
Mark_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 4,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by IRSmart View Post
right, but here's the issue. even with the removal of that bolt, there is still a threaded hole that is too small to let the lug bolt through.
Touché. Not having removed one yet I didn't picture that. Threads are in the rotor, not in the hub behind ?

Ok then... time to drill those threads out I suppose

My avatar is the Elder Predator (goes well with my forum status and overall temper )
2015 North (Canada) - V6 - AD1
Cold, Tow, 8.4A, 9 speakers with sub
Mark_ is offline  
post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Taf789's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
I need to follow-up on that...

I've got 25K miles on the KL and will need to have the second lower ball joint replaced (had the first one done at 20K). And this *damage* only from bad streets, no off-roading or any other abuse. So yeah I can confirm the lower ball joints are weak...

Spacers/adapters add stress to the suspension and steering components connected to the hub, and some vehicules will handle this stress better than others...
Yeah maybe I'll just hold off on the spacers for now after reading these posts

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

"Obviously, you're not a golfer."

- Dude

2017 Cherokee Latitude V6
Taf789 is offline  
post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 09:35 AM
Premium Member
 
SS_Syndicate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 484
Garage
@Taf789 A 1" spacer should add the clearance needed for threaded spacer/adapters. This said, I think lug bolts are a PITA to mount the wheel with during a rotation. This also means the wheel is being mounted with aluminum threads versus the steel ones they used to use. Since there are more threads, strength isn't really an issue. However, boogering up a thread is MUCH more likely, especially since the wheel moves around and is only held on be a small hub lip. Switching to a stud and getting lug nuts makes wheel mounting way easier and has stronger threads.

Full disclosure.... I have noticed some vibration on highway speeds acceleration that I can make come and go with having a spacer on versus off. I'm not sure what is going on, but I think there may be a balance issue. I'm still testing different spacers in different spots to see if there is a change.

@Mark_ I kinda agree with you and where you are going with this.... But in the spirit of maintenance down the road, we just prefer the rotor retaining bolt to be left on. If this was the plan I would make sure the adapter/spacer is hub centric though.

My issue is that BORA sells these adapters with an interference issue and they don't even mention what to look for or potential ways to fix it. I suppose the first step though is to acknowledge there is an issue which they have yet to do.
Mark_ likes this.

SS_Syndicate is offline  
post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 09:48 AM
Premium Member
 
SS_Syndicate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 484
Garage
After reading everyone else's responses (beyond where I was quoted)... I think most of the "debate" is from old/poor information. What we are talking about are actually adapters. They are bolted onto the hub and then the wheel bolts to the adapter. A spacer is technically a shim that just sits behind the wheel and the original mounting us used. Shim type spacers are very dangerous and are illegal in many places. Adapter type spacers are a totally different thing and I am not aware of any legal issues with using them.

I have ran them on several vehicles and pushed them WAY harder than any road vehicle ever will. I used them in circle and drag race and have ran them on many off-road vehicles. I have seen them fail, but of them, they were cheap foreign made things that were not hub centric and had no annealing or anodizing. Even here, the failures were pulled studs (likely related to over-torquing) and possible with any stud or bolt. I have only seen one crack and it was from being loose.

I read on the interwebs all the time that these are dangerous and that they fail, but these statements are never backed up with real (and personal) experience. It's always a google searched image or an example where all the facts are not known. >>>>>>>>>>> I'll get off my soap box now.


Last edited by SS_Syndicate; 05-10-2017 at 09:50 AM.
SS_Syndicate is offline  
post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 09:53 AM
Enthusiast Member
 
edge600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Utah
Posts: 254
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
@Taf789 A 1" spacer should add the clearance needed for threaded spacer/adapters. This said, I think lug bolts are a PITA to mount the wheel with during a rotation. This also means the wheel is being mounted with aluminum threads versus the steel ones they used to use. Since there are more threads, strength isn't really an issue. However, boogering up a thread is MUCH more likely, especially since the wheel moves around and is only held on be a small hub lip. Switching to a stud and getting lug nuts makes wheel mounting way easier and has stronger threads.

Full disclosure.... I have noticed some vibration on highway speeds acceleration that I can make come and go with having a spacer on versus off. I'm not sure what is going on, but I think there may be a balance issue. I'm still testing different spacers in different spots to see if there is a change.

@Mark_ I kinda agree with you and where you are going with this.... But in the spirit of maintenance down the road, we just prefer the rotor retaining bolt to be left on. If this was the plan I would make sure the adapter/spacer is hub centric though.

My issue is that BORA sells these adapters with an interference issue and they don't even mention what to look for or potential ways to fix it. I suppose the first step though is to acknowledge there is an issue which they have yet to do.
I wasn't aware when I ordered mine from bora that I could have asked them for pressed in lug bolts, I'm seriously considering ordering new ones just for the aluminum thread issue you mentioned along with being able to throw the wheels onto the bolts then put lug nuts on.
SS_Syndicate likes this.
edge600 is offline  
post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 09:57 AM
Forum Elder
 
Mark_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 4,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
@Taf789 A 1" spacer should add the clearance needed for threaded spacer/adapters. This said, I think lug bolts are a PITA to mount the wheel with during a rotation. This also means the wheel is being mounted with aluminum threads versus the steel ones they used to use. Since there are more threads, strength isn't really an issue. However, boogering up a thread is MUCH more likely, especially since the wheel moves around and is only held on be a small hub lip. Switching to a stud and getting lug nuts makes wheel mounting way easier and has stronger threads.

Full disclosure.... I have noticed some vibration on highway speeds acceleration that I can make come and go with having a spacer on versus off. I'm not sure what is going on, but I think there may be a balance issue. I'm still testing different spacers in different spots to see if there is a change.

@Mark_ I kinda agree with you and where you are going with this.... But in the spirit of maintenance down the road, we just prefer the rotor retaining bolt to be left on. If this was the plan I would make sure the adapter/spacer is hub centric though.

My issue is that BORA sells these adapters with an interference issue and they don't even mention what to look for or potential ways to fix it. I suppose the first step though is to acknowledge there is an issue which they have yet to do.
I understand, and agree on this principle. Keeping it simple. And that, to me, would be to get studded adapters like you've mentionned.

But if I had threaded 3/4" adapters on hand and wanted to use them... I honestly think the easiest and minimally *invasive* method I would pick would be to grind down 4 lug bolts (one per wheel), enough so they don't rest against the rotor retainer bolt. I could buy a few aftermarket bolts to do this, keeping all 20 OEM ones intact. Of course before grinding them down I would thread a 12mm X 1.25 nut onto the bolt first or, better yet, a 12mm X 1.25 threaded die, to fix the thread once the bolt is shortened. I've looked for 20mm shank M12 X 1.25 conical seat bolts (OEM are 27mm) but can't find any right now.

But yeah, studded adapters all the way, when possible.
SS_Syndicate likes this.

My avatar is the Elder Predator (goes well with my forum status and overall temper )
2015 North (Canada) - V6 - AD1
Cold, Tow, 8.4A, 9 speakers with sub

Last edited by Mark_; 05-10-2017 at 10:00 AM. Reason: I should proof read
Mark_ is offline  
post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 12:57 PM
Enthusiast Member
 
Wheyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Dalhart, TX
Posts: 193
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to Wheyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
@Taf789 A 1" spacer should add the clearance needed for threaded spacer/adapters. This said, I think lug bolts are a PITA to mount the wheel with during a rotation. This also means the wheel is being mounted with aluminum threads versus the steel ones they used to use. Since there are more threads, strength isn't really an issue. However, boogering up a thread is MUCH more likely, especially since the wheel moves around and is only held on be a small hub lip. Switching to a stud and getting lug nuts makes wheel mounting way easier and has stronger threads.
Not sure how many know this but on the OEM scissor jack there is a mounting stud you thread into a mounting hole in order to rest the wheel on to line it up on the thin hub in order to start the bolts.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

2015 Trailhawk, Brilliant Black Crystal Pearlcoat, Hazzard Sky lift, BFG KO2 255/70/17, Auxbeam 20" LED Light Bar, MFC A Pillar LED Mounts, Auxbeam 18w 4" Spots, RRO Super Sliders
Wheyman is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



  Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2014 Trailhawk Wheel Spacers Mpolizzi Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension 229 01-12-2017 10:08 AM
Wheel Spacers, Pros and Cons taatmk Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension 17 07-23-2016 10:19 AM
Wheel Spacers for 2016 Cherokee Latitide? joefish89 Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension 9 04-23-2016 11:34 PM
NovusTech wheel spacers ptrudel Ontario 0 05-07-2015 04:20 PM
Wheel spacers Rje420247 Owners' Garage 8 06-06-2014 01:34 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On