Ummm... has no one thought to actually look at the design of the IFS sway bar connection on the Cherokee?
The link runs from the sway bar to the strut and not the lower A arm so there is no change in the position of the sway bar. Nor is there any requirement to use a longer link, as the mounting point HAS NOT MOVED with any current lift kit design (this is not a solid axle Wrangler).
If the lift had been achieved by a spacer on the top of the strut then the conversation would be valid as the mounting would have changed, but since the link is like 8 or 10 inches long a 20mm move in the mount will not be noticeable.
And finally unless the disconnect was acheived remotely there would be nothing quick about it. Most people would not be able to reach either end without removing the wheel.
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I will chime in on this when I'm not driving but @David_Baker
you are only 50% correct if you are only referring to the front suspension. But if you look at the back suspension which is what I did you would notice that the sway bar end links are indeed connected to the lower control arm. And when increasing the height in the rear, you are indeed pulling down on the angle of the rear sway bar. That is why the MFC end links are adjustable.
referencing stupidity on my part for showing a picture of a JK is childish and your statement was not thought out well. I clearly stated that those pictures were from a wrangler. Not sure where you were going with that. We all know that this lift is not going to kill any suspension. The same thought process bodes well with lets say a CAI for our engines. We know that it's not going to kill our engines, but we put it on anyways. Let's recap the three positive advantages of the links shall we?
1. Thicker rod between the ball joints thus increasing reliability and stiffness. (Good or bad? You decide)
2. Adjustable to bring the sway bar back in line with factory specs. (Good or bad? You decide)
3. Quick disconnect for better articulation from our IFS. When I say quick, I mean no need for a remote, or to take your wheel off or jack the vehicle up and climb under it. I have worked around all of these obstacles. (Good or bad? You decide)
These are NOT needed to run any of the lifts. But I recommend them.
FFT. Synthetic oils are NOT needed in our engines. But I recommend them. AND after having a lengthy conversation with a member here on the boards who has taken his rig onto BLACK trails, when climbing and descending in rock mode, if one tire is planted and the opposite tire is in the air, the computer will only turn the planted tires and not the tires in the air. So while the end links are disconnected, he agreed 200% based on physics and geometry, that the planted tire half shaft would become less angled and more or less straight on with the drive shaft and knuckle, and also allowing a few more inches of travel since it would be tucked into the fender area. Since this is the tire that gets all of the torque, no rotation is applied to the tire that is in the air, with its CV overextended. Also, the knuckles are clamped to the suspension, so even more so, the limiting factor of cv will be relative to how much the strut will allow the knuckle to drop, hence my current R&D for running FOX suspension.
I guess you all would like to see pictures, angles and what not. Well that will come shortly. Disconnecting the sway bar will allow our IFS to work independently of each other. That is the real BENEFIT
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AirLift Rear Air Suspension
7 Channel Kicker Speaker Upgrade
ARB Hidden Compressor
Vision X Lighting 10 Watt LED Fog Lights
HD Front, Interior & Rear Lukas Dash Cams
Rola Vortex Cargo Basket on Whispbars with Front/Rear LED Light Bars
40 MM Deyeme Racing Spacers
RRO Super Sliders, Front Bumper Bar & Brush Kit
Warn VR8000S Wireless Winch
Klustom Designs 1.5" Lift Kit
32" 255/75R17 BFGoodrich Mud Terrains