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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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RRO Bumper Info Pease

Well, after grinding, cutting, re-welding a bad weld, and replacing incorrect hardware, we finally got our bumper and winch installed. (More on all this in formal review later.)

One remaining open item and curiosity is the fit of the front fairlead/hawse mount is if someone can tell me if their RRO front bumper sits nearly an inch off the plastic it would help. I can't find any decent pics on the interwebs to tell if this is how it is "designed" to be. I am 99% sure I will be cutting down the stand-offs and replacing these bolts anyway to tighten it up but would like to know if this is yet another error on RRO's part.

For now, I stuffed some foam in the hideous gap to make it look better.

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SS_Syndicate View Post
Well, after grinding, cutting, re-welding a bad weld, and replacing incorrect hardware, we finally got our bumper and winch installed. (More on all this in formal review later.)



One remaining open item and curiosity is the fit of the front fairlead/hawse mount is if someone can tell me if their RRO front bumper sits nearly an inch off the plastic it would help. I can't find any decent pics on the interwebs to tell if this is how it is "designed" to be. I am 99% sure I will be cutting down the stand-offs and replacing these bolts anyway to tighten it up but would like to know if this is yet another error on RRO's part.



For now, I stuffed some foam in the hideous gap to make it look better.



.


1" gap is pretty big. I had 1/2". It was supposed to be flush. They don't send the standoffs correctly ever. They sent me 2 different sets and each time they were wrong. I had to make my own, and my bumper is now flush with it.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:31 AM
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Mine sits fairly flush against the bumper. I'll look for a pic. From your pics, yours does indeed look like it sits too far out.....

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:35 AM
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I found a couple...
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks @taatmk and @myfirstcherokee .... That's what I thought.

My plan was to just cut the ones they supplied down to make the gap even with the amount the top is off ~1/4". One thing I know is I have to really watch the driver's side lower bolt length. I had to grind a fair amount off the corner of the nut in order to get the winch pulled far enough forward to be off the AC condenser and bolt up. The bolt length was perfect for the spacer, but if I shorten it I will need to be cut by the same amount or it will run into the winch gearbox. I want to replace the bolts with a better grade anyway.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 10:27 PM
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Ugh, now I'm sort of worried about doing my install. I can't imagine how they could get the build that bad. Well, unless their jig/tool/dies are worn.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 10:49 PM
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Ugh, now I'm sort of worried about doing my install. I can't imagine how they could get the build that bad. Well, unless their jig/tool/dies are worn.


That's how it was for me too with the bolts


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 11:04 PM
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I have mine still in the box I hope that this week end I can start on it

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 11:25 PM
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SS_Syndicate - yours also looks to be sitting higher than the other pics, is it too high that the bottom fold under will not allow it to push back flush? Can you adjust it to sit lower so no gap on the top like taatmk's sits?

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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SS_Syndicate - yours also looks to be sitting higher than the other pics, is it too high that the bottom fold under will not allow it to push back flush? Can you adjust it to sit lower so no gap on the top like taatmk's sits?
Yea, I noticed this too.... Unfortunately no, there really isn't much vertical wiggle room (as built). The holes in the plate are pretty tight and once you tighten up the bolts it just sort of ends up where it is. I'm okay with a small gap as it will allow for better drainage and cleaning, but the 1 to 1 1/8" gap out front is horrible. Also, there needs to be a bit of room for the bolt heads that hold the solenoid bracket on (since RRO can't seen to see a welded stud would be better).



@Alfrik and @Pondhopper I still don't have my formal review done (been busy with the overland trailer), but before you start the install check your hardware. Even if you have the right qty and size (which wasn't our case) RRO shipped general purpose low grade bolts. In some places this can be argued as fine. In others, it is unacceptable. The front factory tow hooks are held in place by 10.9 bolts. 10.9 bolts have similar properties to Grade 8. RRO has you replace these bolts with cheap Grade 5. This is a massive and dangerous mistake.

Since I know some will argue that the tow hook's real strength is in the large nut and stud on the rear of the hook... I agree on an ideal straight pull. But what happens when the recovery is being made from the side? Massive forces would be on these now inferior bolts. I HIGHLY recommend swapping them for better bolts.

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