Interior Bulbs (LED Replacement) - Page 2 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #11 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-01-2014, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Chase361 View Post
Does anyone know what I can use for the 2 license plate lights so the computer wont say there out?
I believe that you need a 100ohm, 2watt resistor across each to satisfy the computer. (based on the original bulb draw).

I'm surprised that they added plate lights to the monitored circuits. Learner something new in 2014 already!
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post #12 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-01-2014, 09:56 AM
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I just bought two of these guys. Hopefully it will work lol

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...se-tower/1127/
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post #13 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-01-2014, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Yep those are the ones I was looking at. Thanks for confirmation on the interior lights not being can bus.
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post #14 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-01-2014, 12:27 PM
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No prob it looks good too ull like it. Only thing thats annoying me is the light under the dash when u open the door. I don't think those can be changed, they look like there led already.
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post #15 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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So...the map lights. I got the dome and cargo housings open just fine, but had trouble up front. Did you guys pop the lens out, or drop the whole assembly? Couldn't find a good spot to wedge the lenses out with moderate force so I stopped to get some feedback. The domes have more gap due to the lens being the switch but the map lenses had extremely tight tolerances.
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post #16 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 06:31 PM
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So...the map lights. I got the dome and cargo housings open just fine, but had trouble up front. Did you guys pop the lens out, or drop the whole assembly? Couldn't find a good spot to wedge the lenses out with moderate force so I stopped to get some feedback. The domes have more gap due to the lens being the switch but the map lenses had extremely tight tolerances.

The map light enclosures are a single piece (the lenses don't separate). The whole unit has to come down. Grab the front edge (nearest the windshield) and pull down. Don't pull on the rear side - there are two 1" prongs that sit under the roof liner that need to slide out.
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Last edited by CDNTrailHawk; 01-10-2014 at 06:31 PM. Reason: typo
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post #17 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 06:45 PM
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Daylight, to its hart to see the lighting improvement, but:




I used these for the front map lights and cargo area side lighting (no issues):


And these for the rear dome lights (I had to splice in 2W 100Ω resistors in as shown to address some residual circuit power issues causing them to faintly glow when off):
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post #18 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CDNTrailHawk View Post
The map light enclosures are a single piece (the lenses don't separate). The whole unit has to come down. Grab the front edge (nearest the windshield) and pull down. Don't pull on the rear side - there are two 1" prongs that sit under the roof liner that need to slide out.
I actually just popped the lenses off, butter knife was too thick so I used a really small flat head. Prongs are really small so once you get it in a bit they pop right out.

I had a couple extra accidentally shipped to me, tried them in the license plate to see how they looked, non canbus. Looks like the error message pops up only when you first start the car and then goes away, so its not all that intrusive. On jeep garage a guy said his canbus LED's set off the error too and he's going to add another resistor to see if that helps.

Last edited by clew; 01-10-2014 at 07:04 PM.
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post #19 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 04:48 PM
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I've replaced all the interior lights and my license plate lights with OSRAM LED's They are supposedly can bus compatible but the license plate lights still throw an error. I just need to measure the resistance of a stock bulb and add some resistors accordingly to these. Due to the wide application of t10 socket bulbs, I'm betting they only use a rough average resistance of applicable bulbs on these and the JEEP canbus is just particularly sensitive.
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post #20 of 326 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 06:33 PM
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The original bulbs are rated @ 5W. So at 12V you'll be drawing 0.42A/bulb.(i know it varies, and is generally closer to 14v, but they rate them at 5W/12V so we'll stick with that for consistency)

To obtain .42A, you'll require a resistance of 28.6Ω. So with a little rounding to whole numbers - a 5W, 30Ω resistor @ each bulb should do the trick. You should be able to get away with slightly less due to the integrated resistors in your canbus bulbs.

Last edited by CDNTrailHawk; 01-12-2014 at 06:34 PM. Reason: typo
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