Interior Bulbs (LED Replacement) - Page 3 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #21 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 10:29 PM
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Ok after a few hours with a multi-meter and some back of the envelope calculations. Here is what I have.

With the car running the line voltage is 13.6 volts.

I set up an adjustable power supply set to 13.6V and measured the Amperage of the stock bulb and my led's.

Stock:
V: 13.6
A: .4
Ohms: 34

Led's:
V: 13.6
A: .2
Ohms: 68



Using The formula for resistances in parallel and substituting to solve for r2 leaves the needed resistor size as 68 ohms with a dissipation of 2.72 watts. This should simulate a .4A load at 13.6 volts when the resistor is wired in parallel with the bulb.

Last edited by AlexD; 01-12-2014 at 10:35 PM.
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post #22 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexD View Post
Ok after a few hours with a multi-meter and some back of the envelope calculations. Here is what I have.

With the car running the line voltage is 13.6 volts.

I set up an adjustable power supply set to 13.6V and measured the Amperage of the stock bulb and my led's.

Stock:
V: 13.6
A: .4
Ohms: 34

Led's:
V: 13.6
A: .2
Ohms: 68



Using The formula for resistances in parallel and substituting to solve for r2 leaves the needed resistor size as 68 ohms with a dissipation of 2.72 watts. This should simulate a .4A load at 13.6 volts when the resistor is wired in parallel with the bulb.
How is that going generate the 1.21 "jigawatts" of electricity needed? A bolt of lightning is used to power the flux capacitor twice in the series, once with a large pole and hook rigged up to the car to help Marty get back to 1985..

Sorry couldn't resist..
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post #23 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 01:01 PM
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Can you make a video or pics of How did you open the covering for the interior lights. I tried to open if but it didn't opened
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post #24 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 02:31 PM
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For the map lights and overhead lights the whole assembly separates from the roof liner. For the map lights find something flat and pry in between the assembly and roof liner on the side closest to the windshield first. The overhead light assembly comes apart the same way but the side facing the rear of the vehicle unlatches first. The reverse lights can be accessed via removing the access covers on the lift gates rear trim panel i used a jewelers screwdriver to remove the covers. The set of outboard reverse lights i believe you have to unbolt the light module. All of the other interior lights can be accessed by prying them out with a jewelers screw driver and depressing the plastic catch.
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post #25 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 04:59 PM
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Has anyone successfully replaced the (small) exterior bulbs with success? (No hyper flash and no lamp-out)
I'd love to do the plate lights and backup lights with cool white, and the front marker and front turn with amber.

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post #26 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 05:37 PM
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can you either send a link of these bulbs or actual bulb sizes thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNTrailHawk View Post
Daylight, to its hart to see the lighting improvement, but:




I used these for the front map lights and cargo area side lighting (no issues):


And these for the rear dome lights (I had to splice in 2W 100Ω resistors in as shown to address some residual circuit power issues causing them to faintly glow when off):
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post #27 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 05:44 PM
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They're a standard T10 base wedge socket.
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post #28 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Another thing to note when purchasing there are 3 common types of SMD LED's youll come across: the 3528, the 5050 (roughly 3x the 3528), and the 5630 (roughly 1.5x the 5050, 4.5x the 3528)

I used a T10 5630 5-LED bulb and it is pretty bright...for me it was at the upper limit of what I would want up front, though I have considered a bigger array like CDNT's last picture or more for the cargo area

Anyone get their plate lights rigged up without a bulb out warning yet?

Last edited by clew; 01-22-2014 at 05:55 PM.
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post #29 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clew View Post
Another thing to note when purchasing there are 3 common types of SMD LED's youll come across: the 3528, the 5050 (roughly 3x the 3528), and the 5630 (roughly 1.5x the 5050, 4.5x the 3528)

I used a T10 5630 5-LED bulb and it is pretty bright...for me it was at the upper limit of what I would want up front, though I have considered a bigger array like CDNT's last picture or more for the cargo area

Anyone get their plate lights rigged up without a bulb out warning yet?
I had a 10W resistor kicking around so I hooked it up to the plate light circuit. Did the trick!
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post #30 of 333 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNTrailHawk View Post
I had a 10W resistor kicking around so I hooked it up to the plate light circuit. Did the trick!
Nice. Threw out all my components from college a few years back and have been meaning to swing by radio shack to pick up some resistors. Good to hear that did the trick.
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