2014+ Jeep Cherokee HID kit - No Resistors - Plug+Play - Page 61 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #601 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
Hey there,

Just a quick update here. I got one bulb in and working. Ran out of time today so I'll do driver's side (battery side) tomorrow. I'll post later with more details, but just so you know, the XD bulbs go in very easily with no trimming or cheating. The secret : insert them with the long tab in the same slot as where the long tab on the OEM 9012s went. I originally thought I would go with where the connector rested with the OEM bulbs and try to match that position with the xenons ; wrong, since the tab configuration is different, you have to go with the long tab as a guide, not the connector...
In other words : OEM 9012 rests in the housing with the connector at 2 o'colck which means its long tab rests at 8 o'clock (ish). When you take out the OEM bulb (twist it CCW), the long tab comes out at 5:30 ish on the housing. I'll post pics of this later. So when you insert the XD xenon, the long tab must go in at 5:30 ish which means the connector will be at 2:00 ish (going back to my bulb photos a few psots back >> long tab on XD bulb is in the 8:00 position when the connector is at 6:00 while OEM long tab is as 12:00 (opposite connector).
So the connector's final resting position (twisted in) on the XD bulbs is 5:30 ish (where the long tab went in).

I'm guessing your shop guy tried to insert the bulbs with the connector as a guide. I tried that a few times and they won't go in, not without cheating/twisting which I didn't even attempt.

Result for passenger side : no shadow, bulb well seated and beam pattern same as with the halogen bulb. It's not dark out yet but I'm guessing 40% brighter than the OEM 9012.

More later...
Thanks for the info. I have a bit over a week to wait yet for the shop to try again. Steve will hopefully touch base with them a day or two before and be on standby for any issues. I'll probably try to share some of what you said with the shop when I drop it off, whether or not they listen (noticed a hint of ego) is another thing.

Thanks again for all of your helpful posts.
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post #602 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jsswish View Post
Thanks for the info. I have a bit over a week to wait yet for the shop to try again. Steve will hopefully touch base with them a day or two before and be on standby for any issues. I'll probably try to share some of what you said with the shop when I drop it off, whether or not they listen (noticed a hint of ego) is another thing.

Thanks again for all of your helpful posts.
10-4.

Tomorrow I'll take a few more pics of how the OEM bulbs sit compared to these xenons. With those pictures (or descriptions), the installer should have no problem getting them in. I even tested with getting the OEM bulbs in and out a few times to get acquainted, and found them tricky/sticky, maybe the o'ring on them making it difficult to pull out / push in ; no problem at all with these XD xenons though, once you know how to align the tabs with the housing.
It's tight quarters in there and you can't see much, though being tall I was able to sorta sneak my head over and down into that space, to get a look at the housing from behind. But once the bulb, wires and your hand are in there, you pretty much have to go by feel, which is why I practiced first. Positionning the XD bulb with the long (tall) tab at 5 o'clock makes it a lot easier to get her in, then twisting CW offers just a little bit of resistance until the tab hits a rivet/pin and stops in position. Position of the connector has no importance, the wiring has enough slack to swing around 360° unobstructed. But final connector postion for these xenons is 5:30 ish, different from the OEMs

More tomorrow...
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post #603 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 08:09 PM
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Well, she's all done. Finally...

Went for a short drive on a snow covered county road not far from here, a road I travel to take my son to his friend's house. It was dark out. The output from these xenons is far above and beyond what the halogens produce. My halogens were aimed too high from the factory, so I adjusted the aim down 3 full turns (CCW) before I drove out with the HIDs. I may have overdone it a little, but I'll leave them this way for a while to get accustomed. With the snow cover, these almost seem too bright, but that's normal with a strong 4300K beam (or hotter) on snow. We're at the freezing point here for a few days, we may even go above 32F, so I'll be able to do the ultimate test : wet pavement...

With these *regular* (not Philips) 4300K Xenon Depot HID bulbs, there is no shadow ; Steve said the manufacturer had recently tweaked the bulbs to eliminate the shadows and I will agree.

I went in by removing the airbox and the battery. I did something no one else seems to have tried, to sidestep the check engine light : I hooked up a little 12V power supply to the battery cable connectors before removing the battery, so the Jeep never lost power. Once done with the install, I wanted to test the driver side light without re-installing the battery, just in case I had to tweak something... so I hooked up jumper cables from my car battery, which was resting on the ground near the Jeep, to the battery cables, and tested the light. Warning : gotta be careful when hooking up with jumper cables like this, to avoid any short circuit from postive to ground anywhere... I took my time so no worries. Once tested (good), I re-installed the battery then turned off the power supply.

Driver side bulb didn't go in as easily as passenger side, and there are two reasons : 1) I think the position for the tabs was very slightly different, though I can't prove it as both sides are sealed up and unreachable (airbox and battery in the way...), and 2) driver's side required I work the bulb with my left hand, and I am right-handed... Took me 5 minutes to get the bulb in correctly, as opposed to 1 minute for the passenger side. Driver side appeared to have a stickier gasket, so I finally got it in by pushing on it a little harder....once the tabs were ligned up. I'll post pics a little later...

I am really... really... pleased with the result. I can see now... finally...

Edit to add. @Len1304 : dude, you gotta do this mod now. No kidding...
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Last edited by Mark_; 01-18-2017 at 08:14 PM.
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post #604 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 12:38 AM
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I readjusted them up a bit, close to a full turn (CW). They are still way lower than stock, but I find them more functional this way. High beam doesn't do distance lighting when the projectors are aimed too low. You'll see in next pictures that I could move them up a bit and it would help the high beams, but I prefer to keep them low(er) for oncomers. I will also carry my 6mm long hex socket in the Jeep, for spot adjustments when I have extra weight onboard and need to drive at night. With the right tool, adjusting these is a breeze : pop the hood, grab the tool and do both sides in less than 30 seconds. Instead of auto levelling, mine gets *me levelling*

Now... A few teasers for Len

Low beam, partial snow cover (sorry it's a little blurry) :


High beam, same spot :



You may notice passenger side is a bit higher. That's on purpose.
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post #605 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 12:55 AM
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@Jsswish : as promised, here are a few pics you can show the installer :

Below is the position the xenon bulb must be in for proper insertion, with the tabs aligned with their respective slots (long/tall tab down in the 6:00 position, we see it well here) :


Next picture shows final resting position of the xenon bulb, after pushing it in and twisting CW (from position in pic #1) :


The challenge for me while taking these pictures was to try and get the lens at the right position, in order to have the right angle of view. A bore cam twisted around and moved in tight places is not easy to angulate properly... which is why the final position of the connector here is more 6:00, while the pics I took on the passenger side show 5:30.

I'll post a few more pertinent pics of the housing tomorrow...
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Last edited by Mark_; 01-19-2017 at 01:00 AM. Reason: typos, as always ;)
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post #606 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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@Mark_ - Thank you so much for taking the time to post up your feedback and thoughts. I appreciate you trusting us with your vehicle's lighting
@Jsswish - As @Mark_ suggested, please print up a copy of the pics that he posted, as this would be way better then me trying to explain it to your installer over the phone -- at least if he sees the pictures he knows that it's possible.

Steve
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1-877-522-2701 | info@xenondepot.com

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post #607 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 10:14 AM
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@XenonDepot / Steve : you bet. I can't compare with other kits but I can say this one gets the job done, and seems to have improved with age as far as shadows (gone) and of course the PWMs. I've read that the 2016s are trickier though.
The buying experience with you guys is top notch.

===

Now here's one more pic of the housing. I marked the slots where the tabs go in (in red, using MS Paint, sorry... ). Look at how the slots are cut, especially the lower one at 5:30 - 6:00. That one is for the long/tall tab and we can see the slot is full depth and really wide (remember that the top tab on 9012 halogens is long/tall and really wide, wider than on the 9012 xenons) :

(the picture is slightly slanted here : I rotated it with the shutter as a guide, to try and get the position right which is hard to do when taking a pic with a bore cam).
From that picture above, it is clear where the long/tall tab must go.

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Last edited by Mark_; 01-19-2017 at 10:17 AM.
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post #608 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
and seems to have improved with age as far as shadows (gone) and of course the PWMs
Credit is also due to the forum members that contributed feedback

Use our Shop by Vehicle tool to find the right lighting for your Jeep Cherokee, and the most up-to-date Cherokee lamp replacement guide!

1-877-522-2701 | info@xenondepot.com

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post #609 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 11:51 AM
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Credit is also due to the forum members that contributed feedback
Absolutely. Love the forum for the resources submitted by fellow maniacs

Credit also to the bunch who beta tested at the beginning, including Pat ( @ptrudel ) who did the install guide.

I try to give back, because I also *take*. One example : last week I noticed a dying heater blower motor in our 2008 Versa. In mid January cold, not a great idea to not have heat. Slapping the side of the center console worked most times, but it was dying fast. So I searched the Interwebs and first learned about how much the original motor costs ($300+) and the job according to Nissan (4-5 hours, dash removal required) ; in my book that's $800+. Yikes. And then I found other forum posts... and a few YT vids... Found me a motor at a local recycler for $60 and did the job myself in under one hour. No dash pulling. Thank you Internet... Love the forums
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post #610 of 627 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 12:51 AM
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Ok I put mine in last night.....first off, these are truly plug n play. Very nice not to have to deal with splicing or grounding.

1. I tossed the relays in the trash. Not needed.

2. I cranked the wheel to the right and just removed the 3 7mm bolts that secure the wheel liner. Then I pulled back the liner and used a bungy cord to hold it.

3. When I pulled off the covers and took the OEM 9006 bulbs out, instead of drilling the 3/4 hole and removing the connector, I drilled and then filed out a notch so I could work the plugs through. This method is much easier and gives less chance of screwing up wiring. Once the rubber gasket is on, you can't even tell that it was notched. Also, this kit didn't need to have polarity reversed with my car.

4. I used bigger zip ties to secure everything and also used the supplied double sided tape to mount the ballast. On the passenger side everything was mounted from above in the engine compartment.

All in all, this was as easy as....well....screwing in a lightbulb. I didn't end to adjust anything and the bulb tabs were identical to the OEM ones. They fit perfect and the light line is the same as the OEM bulb.

Also, I didn't disconnect the battery so there was no issues there.

Props to Xenon depot for making a simple plug and play kit that doesn't throw errors and so far looks/works great.
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