HID conversions - blinding everyone in front of you? - Page 2 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #11 of 65 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 11:09 AM
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Is there any generic test one can do to test the aim?

Say find a flat wall, park x feet away and measure up how far the lights go and then adjust down or up based on that?
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post #12 of 65 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 11:28 AM
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@David_Baker @Mark_
Is there any generic test one can do to test the aim?

Say find a flat wall, park x feet away and measure up how far the lights go and then adjust down or up based on that?
Somebody posted a link on the forum a while back, but I can't find it. Here's one that I've just looked up that seems Ok :
http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Car-Headlights

I aimed mine with onroad testing only. Since they are HIDs, I didn't want them too high so they are probably a tad lower than *spec*. One thing to remember : factory HIDs come with a special auto leveller system, that compensates for different vehicule *tilt* (like extra weight does) and lowers the headlight aim accordingly ; this to prevent blinding others. Those of us with HID kits don't have auto levelling, so care must be taken with the aim of our lights. That's why I keep a 6mm hex tool in the car, if I ever need to aim down away from home because of extra weight...
And also : once aimed, it's not a bad idea to havce the driver's side lamp aimed just a bit lower than the passenger side (with HIDs or super bright LEDs).

HTH
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post #13 of 65 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 03:58 PM
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Yep agree totally. Technically the OEM HID is aimed 1.% down. I used the garage floor as level and the rear door at about 2m from the headlights. Did the sums and marked the wall. I measured the tip of the beam at the vehicle and marked that on the wall then measured down what I had calculated and marked that then aimed it to the low lower mark.

However as Mark said having OEM in mine they do self adjust with loads so I would just drive with them and see where they hit other vehicles and adjust accordingly. Use the wall to get them even.

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post #14 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 11:16 PM
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Yeah that's actually a 5mm from my roof racks so won't actually work... I too use a 6mm 1/2 in drive version with a long extension. However please note if doing this to tape the adaptor to the extension!! This is from the wonderful experience of trying to get the bit after it came off and dropped...
Hahahaha... been there, done that. The other day when installing the HIDs, I dropped the 8mm socket while re-installing the air box ; it came off the extension. I finally got it by removing one screw holding part of the wheel well liner, stuck my hand in there and grabbed it. Pheww. Hex bit held very firmly on the extension so I wasn't worried. Yeah famous last words lol. I'll be keeping the tool in the Jeep, so... I guess I'll have to tape those suckers together now that you mention it
I dropped my phone below the radiator. Both my dad and I were like what the heck was that noise... half an hour later I was frantically looking for my phone. Then it just clicked what that noise actually was. Just like when I checked my bulb type I contorted my arm like 5 different ways to get it.
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post #15 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 08:27 AM
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Never mind. I deleted the content. Need more coffee... sorry...

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post #16 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 11:57 PM
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@David_Baker @Mark_
Is there any generic test one can do to test the aim?

Say find a flat wall, park x feet away and measure up how far the lights go and then adjust down or up based on that?
Somebody posted a link on the forum a while back, but I can't find it. Here's one that I've just looked up that seems Ok :
http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Car-Headlights

I aimed mine with onroad testing only. Since they are HIDs, I didn't want them too high so they are probably a tad lower than *spec*. One thing to remember : factory HIDs come with a special auto leveller system, that compensates for different vehicule *tilt* (like extra weight does) and lowers the headlight aim accordingly ; this to prevent blinding others. Those of us with HID kits don't have auto levelling, so care must be taken with the aim of our lights. That's why I keep a 6mm hex tool in the car, if I ever need to aim down away from home because of extra weight...
And also : once aimed, it's not a bad idea to havce the driver's side lamp aimed just a bit lower than the passenger side (with HIDs or super bright LEDs).

HTH
So I parked my car in front of my house and left the lights on. Took my wife's car down the road and back home... those lights are sure bright. Granted it's raining and everything reflects more, but I feel guilty. I dropped them a little bit a couple weeks ago and only flashed once since (low sedan).

I bounce back and forth on swapping back in the halogens (actually bought phillips hid like) but more often than not I am blinded by on coming traffic too... and I convince myself not to.

Should I drop it them even more? I don't really have a good reference (garage)... just saw they move down and figured it would be ok.
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post #17 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 09:23 AM
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So I parked my car in front of my house and left the lights on. Took my wife's car down the road and back home... those lights are sure bright. Granted it's raining and everything reflects more, but I feel guilty. I dropped them a little bit a couple weeks ago and only flashed once since (low sedan).

I bounce back and forth on swapping back in the halogens (actually bought phillips hid like) but more often than not I am blinded by on coming traffic too... and I convince myself not to.

Should I drop it them even more? I don't really have a good reference (garage)... just saw they move down and figured it would be ok.
Hey,

Garage doors won't help for aiming, unless you actually measure aim, using one of the recognized techniques (flat ground, measure/mark beam center up close to the door with tape, then move back 10 or 25', etc...). My advice is to aim them onroad. I had my wife's car as a guide.

Can you take one or two pics with your low beams on a flat dark street/road ? Just so we can see how high the aim really is. Like I've said before, mine have the cutoff roughly 40' ahead.

FWIW : we drove on dark two-lane highways for a few hours last week, with quite a bit of traffic. I was not flashed once.

You mentionned being blinded by quite a few cars ; try to keep that issue separate from yours, because you can only control the beam on your vehicule, not what others do. I too find myself annoyed with a lot of OEM HIDs and some LED headlights out there, but also with an outrageous amount of cars with fog lights On that throw glare in others' faces. Fighting back with too much light is not the answer... but you can aim your headlights appropriately so you won't offend. And use the fog lights for fog.

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post #18 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:38 PM
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Hey,

Garage doors won't help for aiming, unless you actually measure aim, using one of the recognized techniques (flat ground, measure/mark beam center up close to the door with tape, then move back 10 or 25', etc...). My advice is to aim them onroad. I had my wife's car as a guide.

Can you take one or two pics with your low beams on a flat dark street/road ? Just so we can see how high the aim really is. Like I've said before, mine have the cutoff roughly 40' ahead.

FWIW : we drove on dark two-lane highways for a few hours last week, with quite a bit of traffic. I was not flashed once.

You mentionned being blinded by quite a few cars ; try to keep that issue separate from yours, because you can only control the beam on your vehicule, not what others do. I too find myself annoyed with a lot of OEM HIDs and some LED headlights out there, but also with an outrageous amount of cars with fog lights On that throw glare in others' faces. Fighting back with too much light is not the answer... but you can aim your headlights appropriately so you won't offend. And use the fog lights for fog.
Sure, I will get some pics. Are you looking for 25' out or 40'? Also how high should I set my camera?

PS. I do agree keeping these issues separate... I don't want to offend. I usually keep my fogs on so ppl at least know I dont have my brights on - but they (fogs) are not as bright as I had thought. I even got flashed with my stock halogens - however, I am probably paying more attention to it now than ever before.
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post #19 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:48 PM
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Sure, I will get some pics. Are you looking for 25' out or 40'? Also how high should I set my camera?

PS. I do agree keeping these issues separate... I don't want to offend. I usually keep my fogs on so ppl at least know I dont have my brights on - but they (fogs) are not as bright as I had thought. I even got flashed with my stock halogens - however, I am probably paying more attention to it now than ever before.
Best pics would be taken (safely) while you are stopped, camera at eye level (yours) looking ahead. Please no outside pics of you looking at your lights... I used my phone at eye level (stopped of course) and it gave a decent result. You can (or I can do it for you) correct for brightness after the fact, if you feel the pictures are not what your eyes were seeing.

My low beam cutoff is roughly 40' ahead. And I had to aim them 2 full adjustment screw turns lower than factory aim to get there. I believe a lot (most ?) Cherokees come from the factory with the aim too high, possibly those with factory Tow group being worse because of the extra weight at back.

For the pics, try a few different spots, because no one spot is perfectly flat ahead, so getting a few different shots from different places would help give us a better idea of your aim.

Edit to add : try not to use your fog lights if there is no fog, because they are offensive to others. Don't worry about being visible, you already have headlights + DRLs making you very visible...

My avatar is the Elder Predator (goes well with my forum status and overall temper )
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Last edited by Mark_; 03-08-2017 at 01:15 PM.
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post #20 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 01:54 PM
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Sure, I will get some pics. Are you looking for 25' out or 40'? Also how high should I set my camera?

PS. I do agree keeping these issues separate... I don't want to offend. I usually keep my fogs on so ppl at least know I dont have my brights on - but they (fogs) are not as bright as I had thought. I even got flashed with my stock halogens - however, I am probably paying more attention to it now than ever before.
Best pics would be taken (safely) while you are stopped, camera at eye level (yours) looking ahead. Please no outside pics of you looking at your lights... I used my phone at eye level (stopped of course) and it gave a decent result. You can (or I can do it for you) correct for brightness after the fact, if you feel the pictures are not what your eyes were seeing.

My low beam cutoff is roughly 40' ahead. And I had to aim them 2 full adjustment screw turns lower than factory aim to get there. I believe a lot (most ?) Cherokees come from the factory with the aim too high, possibly those with factory Tow group being worse because of the extra weight at back.

For the pics, try a few different spots, because no one spot is perfectly flat ahead, so getting a few different shots from different places would help give us a better idea of your aim.

Edit to add : try not to use your fog lights if there is no fog, because they are offensive to others. Don't worry about being visible, you already have headlights + DRLs making you very visible...
I took this one last weekend. Not sure it helps. I'll back up a little more and retake it since there is a steep drop off in this pic.

Edit: Actually there is a long flat area on my drive to the gym... I'll grab that later.
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