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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jp1seattle View Post
He said late build 2016 in his first post.


It's a mute point now that we know his build. However, he may have purchased it in late 2016. We don't know, it could have sat on the lot for a while. So, I ask. Better safe than sorry. I'd hate for him to buy something at someone's recommendation only to find because we assumed something that it was wrong.


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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:55 PM
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Yep get the ones with Canbus. Throw out the relays that come in the package and notch the hole that you drill so you don't have to take apart any wires. Gives less chance of failure due to bad connections.

It's a very simple plug n play install that works great. I ordered the 5000k and they match perfectly.

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Last edited by jp1seattle; 03-20-2017 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Misspelling
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by evilhomer View Post
TH was made 5/16 so 9005 now do I get with or with out Canbus ?
https://www.xenondepot.com/9005-Xtre...t-led-9005.htm
Thanks for the helps guys.

That's the kit I installed in our 2/16 build Limited, with "Can Bus".
After "clocking" about 15* they are a little better than the oem halogen bulbs.
Before clocking they were DANGEROUS!


In spite of the "can-bus" we have the "low beam bulb out" warning!
In a few weeks I'll remove the can bus and install a higher resistance resistor.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by abjbrtd View Post
That's the kit I installed in our 2/16 build Limited, with "Can Bus".
After "clocking" about 15* they are a little better than the oem halogen bulbs.
Before clocking they were DANGEROUS!


In spite of the "can-bus" we have the "low beam bulb out" warning!
In a few weeks I'll remove the can bus and install a higher resistance resistor.
dang so even with can-bus you still have the warning ? dang maybe hid is the way to go ? I really want LEDS
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by evilhomer View Post
dang so even with can-bus you still have the warning ? dang maybe hid is the way to go ? I really want LEDS
Mind if I ask why ?

Here's my 0.02 on the LED vs HID thing :
- Bulb for bulb, xenons win in output.
- LED output (lumens) is vastly exaggerated online. We have a trusted vendor here who sells both technologies, and admits HIDs have superior output.
- In our Cherokee halogen projectors, the HIDs I've seen keep the projectors' original beam pattern and cutoff. I've seen a few LED bulbs in these same projectors and patterns were erratic at best, no crisp cutoff with too much bleeding up.
- While xenon and LED bulbs produce genetically different colors, a 4300K or 5000K xenon will come close to the DRLs, close enough for those who care about that stuff anyway.
- From what is available on the market (aftermarket) right now for our Cherokees, no LED kit has proven as reliable or stable as the most popular HID kits.

I understand that the future of lighting is most likely LED, but for our halogen projectors, nothing beats xenon bulbs right now... for performance, cutoff and reliability.
The new adaptive LED light systems we see coming out of Germany are incredible, far better than anything we've ever seen, but you can't get close to that with a single LED bulb replacing one halogen bulb with optics that are not LED friendly...

So while I get the excitement for LEDs, I don't think they are the best option for the KL halogen projectors. Not even close, actually... and they may even be highly offending to oncoming eyes because of the bleed.

Edit to add : when I say HIDs are more reliable, I don't mean bulb life (LEDs will last 20X longer than xenons roughly...) ; I mean fire up consistantly and with no errors.
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Last edited by Mark_; 03-21-2017 at 01:05 AM.
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
Mind if I ask why ?

Here's my 0.02 on the LED vs HID thing :
- Bulb for bulb, xenons win in output.
- LED output (lumens) is vastly exaggerated online. We have a trusted vendor here who sells both technologies, and admits HIDs have superior output.
- In our Cherokee halogen projectors, the HIDs I've seen keep the projectors' original beam pattern and cutoff. I've seen a few LED bulbs in these same projectors and patterns were erratic at best, no crisp cutoff with too much bleeding up.
- While xenon and LED bulbs produce genetically different colors, a 4300K or 5000K xenon will come close to the DRLs, close enough for those who care about that stuff anyway.
- From what is available on the market (aftermarket) right now for our Cherokees, no LED kit has proven as reliable or stable as the most popular HID kits.

I understand that the future of lighting is most likely LED, but for our halogen projectors, nothing beats xenon bulbs right now... for performance, cutoff and reliability.
The new adaptive LED light systems we see coming out of Germany are incredible, far better than anything we've ever seen, but you can't get close to that with a single LED bulb replacing one halogen bulb with optics that are not LED friendly...

So while I get the excitement for LEDs, I don't think they are the best option for the KL halogen projectors. Not even close, actually... and they may even be highly offending to oncoming eyes because of the bleed.

Edit to add : when I say HIDs are more reliable, I don't mean bulb life (LEDs will last 20X longer than xenons roughly...) ; I mean fire up consistantly and with no errors.

Figured it would be easier to install a bulb (led) vs hid that has the ballast box, seem like it would be a cleaner install but maybe I am wrong.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 05:33 AM
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Where do I look to find out what month/year my 2017 sport was built?
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by evilhomer View Post
Figured it would be easier to install a bulb (led) vs hid that has the ballast box, seem like it would be a cleaner install but maybe I am wrong.
For the Cherokee and other vehicules with similar load sensitive headlights, you'll get an extra module (PWM/CANbus/anti-flicker/resistor/whatever) to prevent errors and also to allow the bulbs to fire. HIDs have one extra box of course (ballast). When I installed the HID kit, I didn't have any problem finding room for those modules and with double-sided tape, installing them is a piece of cake. The toughest part of the install is getting to the bulbs, so no matter the bulb type you want, the job is the same, basically...

Quote:
Originally Posted by claza View Post
Where do I look to find out what month/year my 2017 sport was built?
When you open the driver's door, look on the pillar (aka B pillar) and you'll see the factory stickers with all the info you need.

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Last edited by Mark_; 03-21-2017 at 08:38 AM. Reason: forgot a word
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by claza View Post
Where do I look to find out what month/year my 2017 sport was built?
You wont have to worry about build date on a 17, they changed bulbs in the 16+ models but the early 16 models built in 15 still had the same bulbs as the 15's
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by evilhomer View Post
dang so even with can-bus you still have the warning ? dang maybe hid is the way to go ? I really want LEDS
I have tried Both LED and HID from Xenon Depot and as Mark said the HIDS are way better for light output, less bleed and i think easier on my eyes as well. I also live in Northern Michigan they also dont allow ice buildup like the LEDS did, something to keep in mind if you want to travel to Northern California or anywhere else during the winter.
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