Isn't that something where even though audio equipment wiring can be accounted for between the radio and battery/ground and amp and speakers, the data lines can put the kibosh to making a change like adding a factory amp. Noticed there are CAN IHS + and - lines going to the factory amp.
What did you mean in your statement I bolded above? Might that reconfigure the CAN IHS bus to get it to work?
Also, would an aftermarket amp be an easier and just as good approach?
The way these cars are built today it is no longer easy to install something offered as an Factory option, and try and install it yourself.
1 DRLs: My Journey did not come with these. My Dealer had to find them on the Master List which has all the Options with their designated codes. In order to activate my DRLs, the Tech had to first find the code, and then add the code to my Build Sheet. This process activated my DRLs.
2. These codes come and go off of the Master List. There is no rhyme or reason for this. The Code for DRLs had actually fallen off of the list. When it magically reappeared, I was able to active my DRLs.
3. Auto Headlights. Again, my Journey did not come with them. Doing some research, I discovered that all Journeys are wired for them. All I had to do is replace the sensor in the center of the dash, and install a new light switch with the AUTO setting. By the time I got this done, the code for Auto Headlights had once again mysteriously fallen off of the list. When I traded the Journey for my TH, Auto Headlights still had not been activated. If I put the switch to AUTO, all of the exterior lights would come on and stay on!
4. I am so happy that I do not have to do any of this BS with my loaded TH. There is enough room in spare tire well for an amp + the tire!
5. Yes. He should go the aftermarket approach to install an Amp for a Sub. I did the same thing with my Nitro. I purchased the Factory Sub Enclosure and installed an 8" Kicker Sub, with a remote Bass Controller. The Amp was installed under the rear cargo floor. The spare tire on my Nitro was outside and could be lowered with a cable. The Tech used speaker level inputs from the front speakers to power the Amp; + the wires from the battery.
6. If he wants the Factory Sub to work, he would have to add the 9 Speaker Option to his Build Sheet; doing this is no guarantee that it would work due to CanBus issues. Aftermarket is the only way to go.