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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:45 AM
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Touché

Ok-Ok I remember... you probably have 9012s from the early batch, the ones that had a dead spot when installed normally. With a dead spot visible at lower right on passenger, the wire inside the bulbs were positionned at 10 o'clock (ish), and the driver's side dead spot was/is drowned out by the passenger side beam. This is what has been corrected with the newer batch of 9012s XD xenons.

Doesn't appear that the 9005s have received the same fix, yet, which would involve a different wire orientation when the bulb is actually put together on teh assembly line. I do think the 9005s are easier to rotate because of tab configuration, and you should proceed with caution rotating 9012s ; reason is that the wider tab is also very tall, and trimming can only (I think) be done for the width of the tab, not the height, because of how the bulbs are centered in the housing and how each tab's length is responsible for centering and making sure the bulb sits firmly inside the housing once in position. If any tab is trimmed on its height, I'm afraid the bulb would sit loosely in the housing afterwards. I'm just not sure which side of the wider tab requires a trim...

On both mine and my wifes 2016 they had the 9005 bulbs. The wife is really bothered by the black lines. enough so that I am thinking about buying the LED kit instead for her. I have tried rotating the bulbs but it moves the hotspot to where I don't want it. Black shadows are not avoidable on her jeep it seems. Really sucks.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by paultn View Post
On both mine and my wifes 2016 they had the 9005 bulbs. The wife is really bothered by the black lines. enough so that I am thinking about buying the LED kit instead for her. I have tried rotating the bulbs but it moves the hotspot to where I don't want it. Black shadows are not avoidable on her jeep it seems. Really sucks.
That sucks !

Now have you spoken with @XenonDepot about this ? The bottom line here (I think) is that the wire needs to sit low (as in below midline) when the bulb is secured into position. Now I'm not familiar with 9005 tab configuration and how easy it is to *cheat* them into another position.
It is basically 3 tabs on the bulbs, 3 slots in the housing, 1/4 turn clockwise (roughly) to secure into position. With 9012s you can't cheat on tab position because one tab is huge compared to the 2 others (wider and higher) ; I have seen 9005 tabs and the difference in tabs is less dramatic.

One more thing : it's tight quarters in there, even with battery + airbox removed, and you can't see the housing because ti is recessed into the headlamp assembly and you just can't put your eyes behind it because there is no room. So when you try to fit the bulb in, it's pretty much all by feel, and cheating on tab position probably requires some luck, if it is possible. My 9012s went in with the wire roughly at 2-3. o'clock, then twist them in 1/4 turn clockwise and the wire now sits at 6 o'clock, meaning dead spot at noon so not visible at all.

You may need to trim one tab a little to get the bulb in for a correct wire position... and this is where XenonDepot may be able to help.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Update: I tried to move the bulb back a little where its half way locked in and the line did move from the 8 oclock spot to the 7 o clock spot, the wire thing is at the 1 o clock. Hope this is making sense lol cus in my head it does.

Any who I buzzed XD and spoke to some one who said I should try and trim the tab to get it where its gone. Honestly sucks that I have to do this to my brand new HID kit that I thought was plug and play, but now I got to give this a try. Also the dude I spoke to said if I screw up the cutting tab part they will send me a new bulb on them, so that's kinda cool I guess. I didn't ask but wonder if I would have gotten the better bulbs would this problem still be there ??
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Pics of the dead spot moved to the 7 o clock spot and the bulb line is actually at the 1 o clock spot.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 03:13 PM
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My 16 came with 9012's. Didn't realize that until i had 9005 xd kit ordered. Xd assured me they would work, and they did, but i did need to trim the tabs for the correct orientation to get rid of the dead spot. And then i also had to spend some time in front of my garage door at night moving the bulbs in the housing because they had room to adjust and it made a big difference where the hot spot in the light output would go. About a year and 24k now with no issues and very happy with the final product, despite some troubleshooting in the beginning.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 09:55 PM
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My 16 came with 9012's. Didn't realize that until i had 9005 xd kit ordered. Xd assured me they would work, and they did, but i did need to trim the tabs for the correct orientation to get rid of the dead spot. And then i also had to spend some time in front of my garage door at night moving the bulbs in the housing because they had room to adjust and it made a big difference where the hot spot in the light output would go. About a year and 24k now with no issues and very happy with the final product, despite some troubleshooting in the beginning.
Yes, tabs can be trimmed to make 9005s fit in a 9012 socket pattern, or 9006s to fit in a 9005 socket, or 9012s to fit in a 9005 socket, etc... because they all share a basic tab geometry (3 tabs separated by 120°, with similar shapes). It's just the tab width and height that create a difference from one bulb type to another. Housings are designed to fit one bulb type, so trying to cheat with a different tab configuration requires a little trimming, and usually trimming one tab will do fine.


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Originally Posted by evilhomer View Post
Pics of the dead spot moved to the 7 o clock spot and the bulb line is actually at the 1 o clock spot.
Yep, so to correct this you need the bulb to rotate 180° (roughly) in the housing, to move/rotate the wire down. Easier said than done, I know...

Since I have no pics of the XD 9005s and no pics of your bulb housings, I can only suggest this (similar to what XD told you) :
Trim the widest tab down a little bit, on both sides. Not much, maybe just over 1/16" per side. Use a Dremmel if you have one, with a cutting wheel or a grinding cone. Using cutting plyers (like wire cutters) can cause the whole bulb casing to crack...
So once you've shaved a total of 1/8" try inserting the bulb again, 180° from how it was before. If it really won't go in fully (all 3 tabs must go in), then shave a tiny bit more off that same tab, and try again. When it does go in, twist into position and connect the wires.
And remember : the connector on the bulb can be at any position inside the headlamp, no worries, the wiring is long enough so can be connected with the bulb in any position.

Once you get through this step and finally set the bulbs into the new position, the dead spot (shadow) will be gone..

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:01 PM
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Ok I can't edit my post above, so I'll just add this here : I said the bulb with the trimmed tab should go in at 180° from its original position to move the wire down. Well that can't happen with 3 tabs separated by 120°, so 1/3 of a turn will do, clockwise, which means the wire will move from 1 o'clock to 5 o'clock, so the shadow would now be at 11 o'clock and out of sight.
Sorry about that...

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