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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJM View Post
The connector I was asked to disassemble and directly insert the pins were the ones to original lighting harness. See photo.
And as the next photo shows, the headlamp still generated the low beam out message and shut down the lamp.



Now XenonDepot still has the light kits, so there is nothing I can do with it now. (And my money too since it's beyond my return period). And frankly this was supposed to work with minimal risk and work... “XenonDepot's Xtreme Vehicle Specific (V-Spec) HID Kits contain all the HID components needed to upgrade your 2014 Jeep Cherokee to HID - and, all are engineered and tested to work together so your headlights work properly.”.
The car is telling you the headlight is out because it is...

I had the same issue. Do not insert the pins into the OEM connector. The connection will be intermittent and cause connectivity issues.
I recommend you order new bulbs (I got some for $12 on Amazon) and use the plastic connector to plug into the OEM harness without inserting the pins.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:56 PM
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https://ibb.co/g7nLqk

This was my setup that caused issues. Pins into OEM connector. Does not look like yours.


Last edited by Chevyguy2021; 05-16-2017 at 09:00 PM.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
Thanks.

Yeah, I feel your pain. Statistically speaking, I'd say it's a connector issue, because you've tried two different kits already so the likelyhood you've had 2 bad ones is very slim. But anything is possible... And as far as having bad connections on both sides : I think the probability is slightly higher than getting two dysfunctional kits. The challenge - as you well know - is to eliminate every possbility ; this isn't easy because of how hard it is to get to our bulbs...

Below is a picture of our kits, and I've circled all the similar connectors that may have a bad connection. Note that for the one on the right, we don't see the Jeep's female connector, but it is also a critical player here.

Question : when you say disassembled "the connector", which one, or which ones ? As you can see in the diagram below, there are three similar and possibly loose connectors on both sides.


============================

I mentionned statistics up there. Reason I did that is also because we haven't seen a kit with this type of failure before, especially on both sides, so I was thinking bad connections as more likely...

I should be able to find a little time today or tonight to work on mine. I'll let you know how it goes...

Late edit to add : there is also a slight possibility your situation could be caused by the Jeep's BCM aka body control module (I think it's the BCM that controls/feeds the headlights...). This would mean the HID kit's load would be outside the BCM's accepted range, hence the error and no lights. This system is so complex (to me), I wouldn't know how to approach this type of problem... unless a flash is available for the BCM that might correct this behavior... This is all speculation of course.
Assuming that after the lights initially turn on, go off after some time and can then be cycled back on via the light switch or restarting the vehicle without touching any of the wiring, the issue would not likely be a connector. The more likely culprit would be the trigger threshold the vehicle uses to determine if a bulb is out (too little current). A factor to be considered is that the OP mentioned this is an early production KL and XenonDepot did not come out with their PWM Module until late 2015 or 2016 to the best of my recollection. In the "old days" before XenonDepot came out with their PWM module, it was common to put a load resistor across the input to the HID ballasts to draw enough current to fool the vehicle diagnostics that was looking for a minimum trigger threshold. I have no doubt that XenonDepot tested the kit and found it to work in their shop. Problem is we don't know how it was tested and how close that setup is to actual operating conditions in the subject KL. Assuming XenonDepot sends the kit back to you, if it were me... I would put a load resistor across the vehicle headlight connector to see if it fixes the problem. If you ask real nice, the folks at XenonDepot might even be able to hook you up with one or two. Something like one of these from Amazon might be worth a try...

Down and dirty: https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Sig...+load+resistor

A little nicer: https://www.amazon.com/NEVERLAND-War...+load+resistor

The resistor leads basically go across the "+" and "-" leads of the vehicle bulb connector and are a parallel load to whatever is drawn by the HID kit.

The resistor will get hot and has a 50W rating for a reason. Be careful where you put it.

The basic electrical equations are: Voltage(V) = Current(I) x Resistance(R) or V= I x R ==> I = V/R
Power/Watts(W) = V x I

Assuming a nominal 14 Volts when the engine is running, the 6 Ohm resistor from the first link would draw
I = 14/6 = 2.33 additional Amps, an 8 Ohm resistor would draw less at I = 14/8 = 1.75 Amps.

The Power or Watts dissipated as heat would be W = 14 x 2.33 = 32.62 Watts or W = 14 x 1.75 = 24.5 Watts respectively. Both are below the typical 50 Watt rating of the resistors sold for this.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gravitywell View Post
Is your Cherokee running when the lamp is out? or do you have it in accessory mode?

I periodically get the low lamp out error, however it goes away after 2 seconds and my lights work fine.

However, back to my original question, when I'm in accessory mode I often only have a single light functioning. As soon as I turn over the engine, both lights illuminate.


It's running.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chevyguy2021 View Post
The car is telling you the headlight is out because it is...



I had the same issue. Do not insert the pins into the OEM connector. The connection will be intermittent and cause connectivity issues.

I recommend you order new bulbs (I got some for $12 on Amazon) and use the plastic connector to plug into the OEM harness without inserting the pins.


XenonDepot asked me to disassemble the connector and insert the pins directly into the socket only to test if it was a bad connector and see if the lights would malfunction in this temporary configuration. We reassembled the connector after the test failed. Since XenonDepot tested the bulbs I sent back to them as good, I don think they are the problem. It's puzzling isn't it.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by StealthHawk View Post
Assuming that after the lights initially turn on, go off after some time and can then be cycled back on via the light switch or restarting the vehicle without touching any of the wiring, the issue would not likely be a connector. The more likely culprit would be the trigger threshold the vehicle uses to determine if a bulb is out (too little current). A factor to be considered is that the OP mentioned this is an early production KL and XenonDepot did not come out with their PWM Module until late 2015 or 2016 to the best of my recollection. In the "old days" before XenonDepot came out with their PWM module, it was common to put a load resistor across the input to the HID ballasts to draw enough current to fool the vehicle diagnostics that was looking for a minimum trigger threshold. I have no doubt that XenonDepot tested the kit and found it to work in their shop. Problem is we don't know how it was tested and how close that setup is to actual operating conditions in the subject KL. Assuming XenonDepot sends the kit back to you, if it were me... I would put a load resistor across the vehicle headlight connector to see if it fixes the problem. If you ask real nice, the folks at XenonDepot might even be able to hook you up with one or two. Something like one of these from Amazon might be worth a try...

Down and dirty: https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Sig...+load+resistor

A little nicer: https://www.amazon.com/NEVERLAND-War...+load+resistor

The resistor leads basically go across the "+" and "-" leads of the vehicle bulb connector and are a parallel load to whatever is drawn by the HID kit.

The resistor will get hot and has a 50W rating for a reason. Be careful where you put it.

The basic electrical equations are: Voltage(V) = Current(I) x Resistance(R) or V= I x R ==> I = V/R
Power/Watts(W) = V x I

Assuming a nominal 14 Volts when the engine is running, the 6 Ohm resistor from the first link would draw
I = 14/6 = 2.33 additional Amps, an 8 Ohm resistor would draw less at I = 14/8 = 1.75 Amps.

The Power or Watts dissipated as heat would be W = 14 x 2.33 = 32.62 Watts or W = 14 x 1.75 = 24.5 Watts respectively. Both are below the typical 50 Watt rating of the resistors sold for this.


I agree with your analysis completely but I had to follow XenonDepots troubling shooting steps since they are the experts and hope they would come to the same conclusion and perhaps have a solution for my older 2014 Cherokee. Perhaps an updated PWM unit that more stringently adheres to the load thresholds needed to convince the car's computer the original headlights are present. They do say on their website “XenonDepot's Xtreme Vehicle Specific (V-Spec) HID Kits contain all the HID components needed to upgrade your 2014 Jeep Cherokee to HID - and, all are engineered and tested to work together so your headlights work properly.” And they did specifically recommend this exact kit to me to purchase when I initially emailed them with my vehicle information including that it was an early build Cherokee, for advice on what kit to buy. Unfortunately I haven't heard from them since 5/5 when they said they would try to run some more tests on the kits. I've thought about the load resistor option but that's not the product I was advertised. I live in Houston and things get hot enough under the hood.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 12:55 AM
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Thanks to everyone for chiming in here. Some interesting info from @StealthHawk for sure.

I've narrowed down my problem a lot now :

- First thing I did was retest voltage coming up from the KL harness (just before the PWM) : good. I had a low number the other day on that side (11.3V) but I now think it was because I had been running lights on battery for a few minutes before I took out the multimeter. So anyway, good voltage coming up from the passenger side circuit. But no light.

- Next I took the passenger side xenon bulb out and connected a halogen bulb into KL harness : light.

- Next, remove driver side bulb and connect it on the passenger side : light.

- Final step : connect passenger side bulb on driver side : no light.

====

So I've narrowed it down to... a bulb issue. But... is the bulb really bad ? I thought dying xenons changed color gradually and let you know they were failing quite some time in advance. Mine (passenger side) was intermittent for weeks : sometimes it fired, sometimes it didn't. When it fired, it fired normally with its usual color and intensity.
I never saw it flicker or fail while I was driving. When it didn't work, it just wouldn't fire when I turned the headlights On (I don't use Auto headlights), and once or twice I got it to fire up while driving just by turning the headlights Off and On again, but only a few times.

Almost sounds like how a broken incandescent bulb filament sometimes behaves for a short period of time : sometimes the ends come together and you have light, and then they separate and no light, until the thing just falls apart. But xenons aren't built like that... so I don't know what to think. Can a xenon bulb vary its impedance with age ? If so, could that be enough to trip the BCM because of an abnormal load ? My lights were installed in January 2017 and they don't have much On time. Oh and I turned off the features that fire up the headlights with remote start and remote door unlock, so I've been very gentle with them...

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevyguy2021 View Post
https://ibb.co/g7nLqk

This was my setup that caused issues. Pins into OEM connector. Does not look like yours.

Hey there,

What model year do you have ? My headlight connector doesn't look like that at all... but identical to WJM's. Mine is a 2015. Yours has a white lower body and it also has that soft gasket higher up, which ours don't have. The little plastic clips on ours are thinner and easier to break (WJM has one broken and I broke both on my passenger side connector).

I'm also curious about another thing : how come you had a problem while connecting directly with pins ? In my book, that is a solid connection, just as good if not better than when those pins are sitting somewhat loose in a plastic connector. Did you perhaps have a polarity issue ? Older kits were vulnerable to that...

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
Hey there,

What model year do you have ? My headlight connector doesn't look like that at all... but identical to WJM's. Mine is a 2015. Yours has a white lower body and it also has that soft gasket higher up, which ours don't have. The little plastic clips on ours are thinner and easier to break (WJM has one broken and I broke both on my passenger side connector).

I'm also curious about another thing : how come you had a problem while connecting directly with pins ? In my book, that is a solid connection, just as good if not better than when those pins are sitting somewhat loose in a plastic connector. Did you perhaps have a polarity issue ? Older kits were vulnerable to that...
Mine is a 2016 with a 9005.
The issue I had with inserting the pins is they did not have a solid connection. The original kit I had did have the polarity issue and it also did not form a solid connection from the stock connector to the bulb so xenondepot recommended I insert the pins which I did and I taped them up. About 2 months later after off reading I had an issue where a pin shifted and I had to go in and reconnect it. I then 3 months later had corrison issues. Just ordered a whole new kit last month and didn't have to insert the pins. Simply used the connector and made sure to tape everything up nicely. No issues since knock on wood.
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