Xenon HID Headlight Failure on Trailhawk - Page 3 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mark_ View Post
Here to help whenever I can, and thanks

Ok so you are right about the voltage being better with everything Off, and 12.1V with A/C blower and radio is understandable (not necessarily bad).

With a multimeter, check at the battery in the morning, or after an extended rest (8+ hours), to see where your resting voltage is at. 13.8V running at idle is also possible, with some draw from regular stuff like the blower, because at idle the alternator is not fully charging.
But I'm still worried with those running voltages you mentionned earlier (from EVIC/DID) at 13.7 - 13.9V.

About the basic warranty : sorry, my bad... it is 36K miles. I live in a metric system country and I do still (though rarely) mix up miles with kilometers. 36K miles is 60K kilometers...

How recent is the Trigger System ? The thing is, *if* a drain caused your original battery to fail early, it has to be something else... that was installed further back in time. Unless that battery just died because of a defect (we've seen that here on the forum).
Anyway, you could unplug it and let the HIDs be your guide.
If not that, maybe the winch ?

Is your multimeter capable of checking DC current (amps) ? If so, you could possibly check a few things yourself, like checking rest draw at the battery and then, if higher than normal, you unplug one accessory and re-check, etc... We can get you at rest current numbers if you can do this... Draw is current (amps), not voltage, so you need a meter capable of measuring current for this...

Also keep an eye on the running voltage (EVIC/DID) for the next few days. If you don't see 14V (or slightly higher) it would confirm (to me anyway) that there is a problem with the battery.

Buying a new battery is one way to rule out a failing battery, but... it's an expensive way if it turns out your actual battery isn't dying yet.

There is one brand of battery that appears to stand above all the rest, and it's Northstar. This is according to specs and online searching (various forums, etc...). The battery you have right now is built by Johnson Controls, and is sold under dozens of different labels/distributors (Exide, AC Delco, Diehard, Bosch, Duracell, Autocraft, the list goes on and on...), but the Northstars are not as *common*. You can buy them as Northstars, or from Batteries+Bulbs as X2 Power models.
Caveat : they are expensive...
Here's the group 94R : https://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...ls/sli94ragmdp

Northstar also makes one bigger battery that fits (just barely) in the KLs and it has 40% more reserve capacity. It's the group 27F X2 Power. Even more expensive, heh, taller and heavier. I'd recommend that only to those who really abuse their battery though...

One thing to do first : check your battery posts to make sure the connections are tight. I've read from others and noticed myself they are a strange design and not easy to get on tight, especially the Positive side. If loose, remove and clean underneath (top of battery, around the post), and when re-installing make sur you wiggle them fully down, or else they won't be tight enough.

I gotta go for the rest of the day. I'll be sure to monitor this thread when I get back, and regularly though.

Good luck

Edit : I posted this before seeing your last message about the 5.1 mA. I'll need to do some searching on that... later. And this answers my above question about your ability to check current lol.


So I decided to put the Northstar (group 94R) in. I checked the voltage of the battery before I put it in. It was sitting around 12.9V. After putting it in and starting the Cherokee up, the EVIC showed 13.2V. So I took it out on the highway for about a 15 minute drive. It never changed from 13.2V. I pulled over, turned it off, waited a few minutes and started it again. Still 13.2V. I turned the lights on for the remainder of my drive home (only about 5 minutes) and there were no issues. The only idea I have now is to go get the alternator checked from a different place to see if it passes.


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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 09:18 PM
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I will just add (@Mark_ is the expert) that I have never seen an EVIC voltage less than 14.2 while driving and mine is the original wet battery from my late 2013 order in my 2014
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by darin.reeves View Post
So I decided to put the Northstar (group 94R) in. I checked the voltage of the battery before I put it in. It was sitting around 12.9V. After putting it in and starting the Cherokee up, the EVIC showed 13.2V. So I took it out on the highway for about a 15 minute drive. It never changed from 13.2V. I pulled over, turned it off, waited a few minutes and started it again. Still 13.2V. I turned the lights on for the remainder of my drive home (only about 5 minutes) and there were no issues. The only idea I have now is to go get the alternator checked from a different place to see if it passes.
You don't mess around do you..!

Ok...

13.2V running is not normal... You should be seeing 13.9V or higher with the alternator spinning.

Edit #2 to add : if you have a charger at home... I suggest you use it until you have the alternator/BCM looked at...

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Last edited by Mark_; 06-17-2017 at 09:27 PM. Reason: Edit for being absent minded
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 09:33 PM
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Instead of editing again...

Dan : can you please check one thing when you get a chance ? With the engine running (parked), check voltage at the battery with your multimeter, just to rule out a problem with the EVIC readings.

I find it very odd that you used to see 13.7 - 13.9V running with the Autozone AGM and now with the new Northstar you are getting no higher than 13.2V... Hmmmm.

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Instead of editing again...

Dan : can you please check one thing when you get a chance ? With the engine running (parked), check voltage at the battery with your multimeter, just to rule out a problem with the EVIC readings.

I find it very odd that you used to see 13.7 - 13.9V running with the Autozone AGM and now with the new Northstar you are getting no higher than 13.2V... Hmmmm.


I just checked it with the multimeter while running and it is 13.51V. The EVIC still says 13.2V.

I do still have the old autozone battery .... just in case I need to toss it back in. I was wondering if using an AGM battery in this 2014 Cherokee was okay or should I try going back to a wet cell?


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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 11:52 PM
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I just checked it with the multimeter while running and it is 13.51V. The EVIC still says 13.2V.

I do still have the old autozone battery .... just in case I need to toss it back in. I was wondering if using an AGM battery in this 2014 Cherokee was okay or should I try going back to a wet cell?
Thanks for checking so quickly !

Yeah 13.51V is too low. Are the terminals tight at the battery ?

I would toss the Autozone battery back in until you get the charging system looked at, so you don't harm the Northstar... And if you do this, you'll be able to check running voltages with it again (the Autozone battery) to compare with the Northstar.

As far as you going with an AGM in a 2014 : AGMs are superior batteries, good for all cars/vehicules. Better than a wet battery in your KL for sure. FCA decided to go AGM in 2015 V6 KLs because of the extra burden imposed by ESS. An AGM in an ESS-less 2014 just means you have a superior battery compared to (your) OEM. The alternator in 2015+ ESS equipped KLs is slightly more powerful than yours, again because of the extra ESS loads, but yours is plenty powerfull for wet and AGM batteries, no worries.

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for checking so quickly !

Yeah 13.51V is too low. Are the terminals tight at the battery ?

I would toss the Autozone battery back in until you get the charging system looked at, so you don't harm the Northstar... And if you do this, you'll be able to check running voltages with it again (the Autozone battery) to compare with the Northstar.

As far as you going with an AGM in a 2014 : AGMs are superior batteries, good for all cars/vehicules. Better than a wet battery in your KL for sure. FCA decided to go AGM in 2015 V6 KLs because of the extra burden imposed by ESS. An AGM in an ESS-less 2014 just means you have a superior battery compared to (your) OEM. The alternator in 2015+ ESS equipped KLs is slightly more powerful than yours, again because of the extra ESS loads, but yours is plenty powerfull for wet and AGM batteries, no worries.


I didn't have a chance to mess with the vehicle yesterday. This morning I needed to move it out of my way and as soon as I started it the EVIC showed 14.0V. That is with the Northstar still in it. I let it run for a few minutes and it just stayed at 14.0V. I didn't have to to get out the multimeter to verify the voltage but base on past measurements I would assume it would read a little bit higher than the EVIC.


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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 11:56 AM
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I didn't have a chance to mess with the vehicle yesterday. This morning I needed to move it out of my way and as soon as I started it the EVIC showed 14.0V. That is with the Northstar still in it. I let it run for a few minutes and it just stayed at 14.0V. I didn't have to to get out the multimeter to verify the voltage but base on past measurements I would assume it would read a little bit higher than the EVIC.
Probably a good thing you waited... Ok then, we have progress it seems... 14V at EVIC is good. I guess you go with the Northstar and see how the HIDs do.

I'm still worried about something possibly draining the battery though, so best to keep an eye on voltages for a while, including rest voltages at the battery after the Jeep sits overnight.

Keep us posted

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