Installing resistors for License Plate Light Out error? - Page 3 - 2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums
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post #21 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clew View Post
Some have tried the canbus error free LED bulbs and they haven't worked due to what I would imagine is the built in resistance being wrong for this application...so those might not have the correct value either...def a gamble
I think this is exactly what is going on with the CANbus LED's. and no where anywhere have I been able to find information on the types of resistance that is on the CANbus LED, only that they work for European cars.

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Originally Posted by Dundas View Post
From the looks of it I'm not even sure how those adapters would fit since the socket unscrews from the housing... I guess the rubber grommets on the adapter would fit into where the socket goes but they look kind of narrow.
This is in the same boat as what Clew said, its a resistor that no one will put info about. And the rubber grommets look like a one size fits all application. which usually means that it won't work

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post #22 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-28-2014, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dantonio425 View Post
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T10-2825-W5W...e9786f&vxp=mtr. Anyone know if this would work without cutting the factory wires and getting a warning?
will this even fit in the license plate area under there????It may be work a shot

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post #23 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-04-2014, 01:43 AM
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anyone knows whats gonna happen if I just ignore bulb out messsages everytime.
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post #24 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-04-2014, 08:31 AM
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You get an annoying message and chime every time you start your car, nothing else.

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post #25 of 102 (permalink) Old 06-26-2014, 11:11 AM
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Has anyone gotten the back up light error when replacing the back up lights with LEDs? Will I have to put a resistor on either side, or one for the liftgate and one for the outer lights, or just one total?
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post #26 of 102 (permalink) Old 06-26-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by clew View Post
Dont see a soldering iron or electrical tape, you may have them though...they will be needed.

How I did it...
Solder a couple inches of wire (strip say 1/2" of insulation off) to about 1/2" of the resistor leads (the rest can be trimmed prior). Wrap any exposed wiring (I did the whole thing) with electrical tape. The new wire you have soldered on doesn't need to be stripped on the end going in the quick splice. There are 2 grooves in the quick splice, one for the resistor that has a dead end and one for the wires leading to the bulb that's open on each end. Clip one side of the resistor leads to the black, other to the red wire going to the bulb.
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Originally Posted by Dundas View Post
From the description and the images you provided, I drafted up a visible diagram of how the installation should look. Of course, it is not to scale and placement of items will differ, but it's just a general idea of how it should all be connected. Is it correct or did I miss something?

This is awesome info, thanks for the clear instructions and the diagram to @clew and @Dundas. I haven't put my resistors in yet cuz I hadn't seen this thread somehow, just been hitting OK when the message pops up on startup ..

Just curious, @Dundas, how did you draw the electrical diagram? Did you use an electrical program/app? I need to go to wikipedia and read about ohms and resistance and all that to make sure I really understand all this, I find electrical stuff very elusive for some reason. Thanks for the help. Kind of getting sick of the message on my EVIC.

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post #27 of 102 (permalink) Old 06-26-2014, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbucklein View Post

Just curious, @Dundas, how did you draw the electrical diagram? Did you use an electrical program/app? I need to go to wikipedia and read about ohms and resistance and all that to make sure I really understand all this, I find electrical stuff very elusive for some reason. Thanks for the help. Kind of getting sick of the message on my EVIC.
I drafted it up in Adobe Illustrator based on the info that Clew provided

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post #28 of 102 (permalink) Old 10-19-2014, 05:24 PM
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I got tired of the plate light out message every time I started up the Jeep, so I installed the resistor today. I'm still getting the light out error though

Here is the resistor I used:


And here is how I wired it up, one quick splice to the red wire and one to the black:


Am I missing something? Anyone have any idea why this might not be getting rid of the error message for me?

The only thing that I can think of is that the LED bulbs I've got installed in the plate sockets were supposedly "canbus" bulbs, but I was still getting the error using those, so I tried installing the resistor as shown. Could the bulb type I'm using make a difference? Could it require a different watt resistor or something because I'm using the "canbus" bulb? I guess the other possibility is that maybe my solder points for the wires I connected to the resistor are bad - It was kind of my first time soldering anything... but I dont think thats the problem.

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Last edited by Treaty; 10-19-2014 at 07:38 PM.
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post #29 of 102 (permalink) Old 10-19-2014, 08:50 PM
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@Treaty
Edited what I wrote, seems you did one side black and one red. I'm guessing your connection is bad on one or both sides, those splices aren't great on thin gauge wire. Mine was intermittently bad, so I pulled the splices and soldered. I originally would've soldered it but didn't have access to a receptacle...completely forgot I could use the inverter plug in the backseat.

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Last edited by clew; 10-19-2014 at 08:57 PM.
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post #30 of 102 (permalink) Old 10-19-2014, 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the tips @clew

That's a bummer... The quick splices were so easy! I'll mess abound with it to see if I can confirm it's the splices. The idea of pulling it apart and trying to do an in place tap splice/solder thing sounds a little daunting... But I guess if I've come this far I may as we'll be all the way in and give it a shot.

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